Fattoria La Parrina Rosso (2006) Tuscany

Sort of a blah wine from La Parrina, a 450 hectare estate located along the Tyrrhenian coast of extreme southern Tuscany. The name Parrina is derived from the Castilian word Parra, meaning vine or pergola; which gives a hint to the areas past Spanish influence and wine-making history. The estate also operates a hotel and produces fruit, vegetables, olive oil, flour and many other 100% natural, organic foods for sale. The 2006 Rosso Parrina is 100% Sangiovese with a deep purple/red color. Very light nose. Fermented and aged in stainless. Nice balance of acids and tannins. Nothing here however, to make me race out and buy more.

Damilano Barbera d’Asti (2008) Piemonte

A terrific Barbera from Damilano, a small producer whose family holdings include pieces of the Liste and Cannubi vineyards that is known mainly for their ready-to-consume Barolo’s. The wine is from a recently acquired vineyard in Asti. Their Barbera d’Asti replaces the Barbera d’Alba, which was made from rented vineyards, and which will no longer be produced. With it’s high acidity, Barbera is a great food wine, especially anything made with tomatoes. Deep ruby/purple color. Dark cherry on the nose. Excellent balance and length. 100% Barbera. 20% is aged in new French barriques, 40% is aged in used barriques (2nd passage) and the remaining 40% aged in Tonneaux, all for 6 to 8 months. Albeisa bottle.

Trullari Primitivo Del Tarantino (2007) Puglia

A very bad wine from I’m not really sure who. I did an internet search for the producer and importer and was led in circles; it seems no one wants to take credit (or blame) for this wine. Named for the mortar-less, conical-roofed houses of Puglia, the 2007 Trullari Primitivo is a thin, watery effort; not at all like the bold, spicy way Primitivo and its genetically identical cousin, the Zinfandel grape, is supposed to taste. It’s as if it was made in the same manner as Curly of The Three Stooges cooks chicken soup; by pouring hot water over a chicken and serving the run-off. ("How was your meal, sir?" "The soup was watery, the meat was tough, and the coffee tasted like mud." "I’m glad you enjoyed it, be sure to tell your friends.") Made from 90% Primitivo and 10 % Montepulciano. Aged in stainless steel - and tasted like it; literally.

Andrea Oberto Langhe Nebbiolo (2006) Piemonte

A solid, affordable Langhe Nebbiolo from Andrea Oberto, a small (40 acre) family winery that produces about 100,000 bottles of Nebbiolo, Barolo, Barbera, and Dolcetto a year from some prime vineyards located in the communes of La Morra, Barolo, Alba, and Cherasco. The 2006 Langhe Nebbiolo is 100% Nebbiolo grown on 15-18 year old La Morra-ese vines. Meant to be drunk young, the wine is aged for six months partly in wood casks and partly in stainless steel vats and for two months in the bottle. Almost brown in color. (with my bad eyes in poor light) Nice fruit nose. Long, smooth finish. Enjoyed with cherry and port glazed Cornish hens. (something we just threw together) Albeisa bottle.

Sammy Sosa; Former Black Slugger, Italian Wine Lover, Idiot

Newly white Sammy Sosa recently sat down with the Italian Cellar for a brief chat about his life since retiring from the Major Leagues.

The Italian Cellar: Sammy, thanks for taking time out of your busy schedule to speak with us.

Sammy Sosa: It’s a pleasure to be white, I mean here.

TIC: Since retiring have you been watching a lot of baseball?

SS: Not too much; I’ve been busy with several projects.

TIC: Such as?

SS: My new candy bar; it’s made with white chocolate, nougat, and blanched almonds. I’m also writing a biography about another baseball great; Whitey Ford.

TIC: Sounds fascinating.

SS: Well it’s not all work for Sammy. I still find time to take strolls on the white sand beaches of my native Dominican Republic; I collect sand dollars and starfish and bleach them out. I've also taken up surfing; we have great whitecaps here.

TIC: We also hear you’re quite the wine aficionado.

SS: Oh yes; especially Italian whites. I love Verdicchio; it's so seafood friendly. I had a Sartarelli with some grilled whitefish last night; it was terrific. I also recently paired a Pio Cesare Cortese di Gavi with some linguni and white clam sauce; Delicious.

TIC: What happened to your face?

SS: No comprendo.

TIC: Sammy, thanks for your time.

SS: It was great speaking with you.

Poggio Argentiera Morellino di Scansano “Bellamarsilia” (2007) Tuscany

A nice Morellino di Scansano from Poggio Argentiera, a fairly new (1998) winery founded by Gianpaolo Paglia and his wife, Brit, Justine Keeling. Together, they own 22 hectares near the coast in the Maremma and produce nearly 250,000 bottles of wine a year. Morellino di Scansano was granted its DOCG status with the 2007 vintage. To be classified as a Morellino di Scansano, the wine must contain at least 85 % Sangiovese (Morellino is the local name for the Sangiovese varietal). The 2007 Bellamarsilia is made from 85% Sangiovese, 10% Ciliegiolo, and 5% Alicante grown on newly planted, high-density vines. Dark ruby red/purplish color. Strong cherry/berry nose. Three-quarters of the wine is aged for four months in stainless steel; the remainder in cement vats. Perhaps some oak could add the element that’s missing; or maybe the wine is what it is; affordable, fruity, and fresh.

Le Salette Valpolicella (2006) Veneto

A delicious everyday Valpolicella (if there can be such a thing as an everyday Valpolicella…like being too rich or too thin; or in my case, neither) from Le Salette, a 25 hectare Venetonese (is that a word?) winery owned and operated by husband and wife, Franco and Monica Scamperle. (what an opening sentence!) Made from a blend of 50% Corvina, 40% Rondinella, 5% Molinara, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon for good measure. (followed up by a not so great sentence) Brooding, brick red color. (even worse) Dried fruit and spices on the nose. (why are you still reading?) The finish was soft and smooth. Enjoyed with food and by itself. Aged in stainless steel for 6 months. Synthetic cork. Under $15; a great value. (next time I will start slow and finish big)

Copertino Riserva DOC (2001) Puglia

A delicious, spicy Italian red wine from Copertino, a Puglian cooperative of 1,000 growers that crank out 1.2 million bottles of wine annually. The cooperative, established in 1935, has in recent years been producing higher quality wine from the regions traditional indigenous grapes. The 2001 Riserva, crafted by respected enologist Severino Garofano, is a blend of 95% Negro Amaro and 5% Malvasia Nera. Inky, brick-red color. Blackberry nose. Tannins are softened by two years in oak. Rustic yet refined. Nice finish.

La Bellanotte Armonico (2008) Friuli-Venezia Giulia

A white Italian blend that I didn’t really like from the folks at La Bellanotte, an eight hectare artisan winery located near the border with Slovenia. Under the direction of Paolo Benassi and his business partner Cristina Visintin, La Bellanotte produces a full range of white and red wines, along with a Picolit desert wine. The 2008 Armonico is a blend of 30% Malvasia Istriana and 70 % Friuliana (previously known as Tocai Friulano). Bright straw gold color with green highlights. Nice nose of citrus fruit. Acidic to the point of astringency. The percentages in the blend changes from year to year; i.e. the 2007 was a 50/50 blend…..perhaps this makes a difference. Synthetic cork.

Bastianich Sauvignon “B” (2008) Friuli-Venezia Giulia

A very refreshing Italian white wine from Bastianich, a 70 acre Friulian winery founded in 1997 by superstar TV chef Lidia Bastianich and her newly svelte, but still follically-challenged son Joe. (Joe, you look like you’ve lost significant tonnage; I hope nothing is wrong, bro)

Joe "Before"

Joe "After"

Deliciously crisp, the 2008 Sauvignon "B" is made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc that is fermented and aged entirely in stainless. The wine gains some extra complexity because the grapes have been given some extra hang time on the vine. Nice tropical fruit nose, vibrant acidity, and a long finish. Stelvin screw cap.

De Angelis Vesuvio Lacrima Christi Rosso (2007) Campania

WWJD? He sure wouldn't cry (Lacrima Christi translates to "tears of Christ") - this wine is terrific! From De Angelis, a Campanian winery located on Sorrento Bay that has been producing Italian whites, roses, and reds since 1936. The 2007 Rosso is made from 40% Aglianico and 60% Piedirosso, a rustic grape named for its red feet or red roots that is found in a variety of Campanian wines. Ruby-red color. Berry fruit on the nose. Very smooth, soft, mouth feel. Aged for three months in barriques; just long enough to mellow the rustic grapes.

Tavignano Rosso Piceno (2007) Marche

Real garbage from Tavignano, a small Marche winery owned by the husband and wife team of Beatrice Lucangeli and Stefano Aymerich. The winery, better known for their Verdicchio, is located within the municipality of Cingoli and lies within the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi appellation. About half of their 30 acres is planted with Verdicchio, the other half in Sangiovese and Montepulciano. The 2007 Rosso Piceno is 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese. Fermented in small oak barrels, and aged in large oak casks and French oak barriques. To say the wine is oaky would be an insult to all things oak. Very tannic. Rough. Astringent. No finish. Watery. Cheap, short cork. Do not even attempt to drink without food.

Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis (2006) Piemonte

A wonderfully expressive Italian white wine from master winemaker Bruno Giacosa, whose family has been making wine in the Langhe region of Piedmont for three generations. Giacosa credits his winery's success to his respect for traditional winemaking methods which enhance the characteristics of the grapes. The Giacosa property covers 37 acres that are entirely cultivated in vines. Made from 100% Arneis, an indigenous varietal cultivated in Roero area of Piedmont. Fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel. Elegant nose of apples, peaches and pears. Sparkling in the glass. Vibrant acidity. Enjoyed Saturday with my family's traditional Halloween meal of Chicken Diablo. Annoyingly long cork made opening difficult.

Pieropan Soave Classico (2008) Veneto

A terrific Soave Classico from a benchmark producer. Family owned since its founding in 1890, the estate covers about 30 acres in the Soave Classico DOC. Pieropan’s Soave Classico is 90% Garganega and 10% Trebbiano di Soave. The Garganega provides the structure and acidity to the wine, while the Trebbiano di Soave provides the perfume. Brilliant straw yellow color with a slight greenish hue. Floral, marzipan nose. Nice fruit on the palate that is balanced by a bright acidity that enhances its length. The wine is aged for a short time in oak casks for some extra weight and depth. Stelvin screwcap.

Albino Rocca Vignalunga Dolcetto d’Alba (2008) Piemonte

A knock-out Dolcetto from Albino Rocca, a 15 hectare estate that was established in 1960 by Giacomo Rocca. Now run by grandson Angelo, the estate produces about 100,000 bottles of wine a year; about half Barbaresco, and the other half split between Barbera, Dolcetto, Chardonnay, and Cortese. Rich, deep purple/red color. Very floral nose of ripe red fruit. Aged in stainless steel for 8 months before bottling. A very smooth, well-made wine. Priced for everyday drinking. I have read that Rocco’s modern-style Barabaresco’s are also great; I must try to find them. Albeisa bottle.

Authorities Investigate Link Between “Balloon Boy” Hoax and Obscure Italian Wine Blog

Denver - Just days after the world watched a giant silver balloon fly through the air as a tearful family expressed fears that their 6 year old son Falcon could be inside, authorities announced the whole thing was a hoax. Larimer County Sheriff Jim Alderden stated that Richard Heene admitted that the ill-conceived plan was just an idiotic publicity stunt to promote "The Italian Cellar", an obscure wine blog. Heene, a past participant on the TV show "Wife Swap", and a self-proclaimed meteorologist (with a high school education) claimed that his combined passion for both media exposure and Italian wine drove him to concoct the plan. "The Italian Cellar’s wine reviews are both informative and fun." Heene stated. "The blog has exposed me to many terrific Italian wines that I never knew existed. I wanted to tell the whole world about this blog." Heene stated that he had been working for weeks on a banner that would be hung from the balloon which had the Italian Cellar’s web address on it. But the media stunt was not to be. "I forgot to attach the banner to the balloon before I released it." Henne said sheepishly. Heene stated that he and his wife, Mayumi, often enjoy a nice Valpolicella after putting sons Falcon, Eagle, and Buff-Crested Bustard to bed. "The wine really helps me with my proposals for reality show pitches." Heene said. The Italian Cellar vehemently disavowed any knowledge of Mr. Heene or his actions.

Salvatore Molettieri Aglianico Cinque Querce Irpinia (2005) Campania

An intense Italian red wine from Salvatore Molettieri, an 11 hectare family owned Campanian winery run by Salvatore (a trained farmer) and son Giovanni (a trained oenologist). 100% Aglianico, a grape thought to have been planted centuries ago by the Greeks who colonized the area. The estate bottled their first wine in 1988. The 89, 90, and 91 grapes were all sold to buy barrels for future vintages. Very dark, brooding, purple color. Named after the Cinque Quere vineyard in the Irpinia DOC. The wine is called Taurasi when it's from the Taurasi DOCG. (see how simple Italian wines are?) Organically farmed. Aged in oak casks and in French oak barriques for 16 months and for 6 more months en botti. Spicy, cherry, cocoa. Tannins lose their bite with food. Enjoyed with beef and pork ragu. A nice wine.

Inama Soave Classico (2007) Veneto

I admit it. I never drank a Soave before. Maybe I’m a snob. Maybe I remember those bad Soave Bolla commercials from the 70’s. Maybe it’s all the bad press Soave gets. Boring. Cheap. Insipid. A commodity wine; mass-produced by cooperatives whose emphasis is on quantity rather than quality. While all that may be true about your supermarket variety, Inama’s Soave Classico is different. In the 1950s, Giuseppe Inama, the estate's founder, began purchasing small plots of vineyards in the heart of the Soave Classico region with the desire to produce top quality wines. In the 1990s, the winery purchased vineyards east of Soave in the neighbouring province of Vicenza and began making red wines from grapes such as Carmènere, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Today, the winery has nearly 25 hectares under vine. I found Inama’s Soave Classico full of flavor and interest. Brilliant light yellow color. Wonderfully fragrant floral nose. 100% Garganega. Aged for 8 months in stainless steel before bottling. Delicious. I’m sorry I waited so long to try it.
　
　

Mastrojanni Rosso di Montalcino (2004) Tuscany

A delicious Rosso di Montalcino from Mastrojanni, a winery founded in the mid 1970's that today is recognized as being one of the better producers of Brunello di Montalcino. The Mastrojanni family has over 44 hectares of land under vine in the southeastern part of Montalcino, about 7o miles from Florence. Rosso di Montalcino is a wine made from 100% Sangiovese Grosso; the same grape that is grown in the same delineated region that is used to make Brunello di Montalcino. The wine, however, is required to spend only six months aging in oak and 1 year total aging before release instead of the longer aging required of the region's flagship Brunello di Montalcino wine. Although some Rosso di Montalcino’s are lighter in character than a Brunello, the 2004 Mastrojanni I enjoyed was very Brunello-like. Quite a bargain for $20. Enjoyed with grilled Italian sausage and gnocchi with sage brown butter sauce. Fragrant dark fruit and tobacco nose. Smooth tannins. Long finish. Aged for 10 months in slavonian oak casks before bottling. Jeeves and Wooster-style label.

Castello San Sano Chianti Classico (2005) Tuscany

In an Italian wine world filled with seemingly endless choices, it's hard to get excited about Chianti. The 2005 Castello San Sano Chianti Classico is no exception; It's simply Chianti. Located in the heart of Chianti, the San Sano farm is home to olive oil production, Cinta Senese pig breeding, and sheep farming. 90 of their 230 hectare farm is planted in vines. 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo. Aged in oak tonneaux for 15 months. Given a choice, I'd take a pig.

Ca’ Viola “Brichet” Barbera d’ Alba (2007) Piemonte

A terrific Barbera from Ca' Viola, a small Piemontese winery that was founded in 1991 in Montelupo Albese, a town located on the hills surrounding Alba. Owner Giuseppe Caviola, along with enologist Maurizio Anselmo and agronomist Gian Piero Romana produce about 35,000 bottles of dolcetto and barbera a year. All of Ca' Viola wines are made exclusively from grapes grown in their 9 hectares of vineyards and are unfiltered. The 2007 Brichet has a deep violet-ruby red color, with a fragrant nose of fresh red, brambled fruit. (brambled is a new word for me; as in "Does this shirt make me look brambled?") Nice balance of acidity and tannins. Aged in oak casks and barriques for 10 months. The wine has a quiet 14% alcohol content. At $30 a bottle, the wine is a little pricey.

Cusumano Benuara (2007) Sicily

A solid, value-priced southern Italian red wine from Cusumano, a Sicilian winery created by third generation winemakers and brothers Diego and Alberto Cusumano who assembled a network of growers that previously contracted with cooperatives. The 2007 Benuara is 70% Nero d’ Avola, a funky Syrah-like grape that is native to Sicily, and 30% Syrah (many enologists believe the Nero d’ Avola and the Syrah grapes to be one and the same). A majority of the wine (80%) is aged in stainless steel with the remainder barrel aged for an old world/new world feel. Spicy, yet smooth. Has the finish of a well-made wine. Way-cool glass "Vino-Lok" stopper.

Nino Franco Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut (NV) Veneto

A dry, fruity Prosecco from Nino Franco, a third generation winery is located in Valdobbiadene, an area in Veneto known for producing some of Italy's finest Prosecco. Nino Franco produces a full line of Prosecco from bone-dry to slightly sweet,with their "Rustico" being their best seller. Unlike Champagne, Italians treat Prosecco as an ordinary, everyday drink that is served in unstuffy white wine glasses and enjoyed with meals. The Valdobbiadene Brut has a pale straw color and crisp, mouth watering acidity. Nice apple/floral nose. 100% Prosecco. Sourced from high and medium high vineyard sites. Available in half (375 ml) bottles so you can enjoy without overindulging.

Mastri di San Basilio “Due Sicilie” Extra Virgin Olive Oil

A benchmark EVOO from Mastri di San Basilio, 4th generation Sicilian producers of olive oil and almonds. Their "Due Sicilie" is a blend of Nocellara del Belice and Moresca olives. The Padova family uses certified organic agriculture methods, innovative tree pruning, and gentle, same-day, "continuous cycle" pressing to produce their product. The Padova’s are so "green" that they transform the olive pomace into a natural fertilizer and a green-energy fuel for domestic heating. They claim that their low oxidation processing results in a free oleic acidity level less than .2‰! Outrageous! The oil has a pronounced, rich, green, fruity flavor. Lux in a salad dressing, a topping on a slice of warm bread, or as a finish to grilled beef. A portion of the sale of each bottle supports the preservation of Sicilian arts and sites on the World Heritage List. Purchased at Whole Foods.

Buglioni il Clandestino (2007) Veneto

A beautifully floral Italian white wine from Azienda Agricola Buglioni, a small (14 hectares), young (1993) winery located in the Valpolicella Classico area of Veneto. Owner Alfredo Buglioni, son Mariano, and oenologist Diego Bertoni’s first Amarone, the 2001 vintage, won gold when it was shown at Vinitaly. The wine is named il Clandestino because it’s made from the same grape (Garganega) that a Soave is made from, although it’s not made in Soave. As previously stated, the wine has a beautiful floral nose. Nice lemon/citrus flavor. Crisp. On the palate, the wine has the feeling of depth. Terrific with food.

Filomusi Guelfi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (2006) Abruzzo

A nice Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Filomusi Guelfi, a small, longtime winemaker. The Filomusi family, originally from the Marche region, moved to Abruzzo in the 16th Century. As is so often the case, a Filomusi married a Guelfi and the land; a 9 hectare plot where the present vineyard stands, was added to the patrimony together with the name. A majority of the vineyard (78%) is Montepulciano grapes. Filomusi Guelfi practices green farming methods; the soil is not tilled between the vines to utilize the "green manure". Filomusi Guelfi is the only estate in the area to produce and bottle wine exclusively from its own grapes. The wine was nearly the color of concord grape jelly. Spicy, cherry nose. Soft, warm mouthfeel. A good buy.

Castelcosa by Furlan Ribolla Gialla (2007) Friuli-Venezia Giulia

A nice floral Italian white wine from Castelcosa, a small family-run winery that owns approximately 6 hectares of estate vineyards and has another 40 under contract in three of the most viticulturally-important areas of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region—Grave, Collio, and Colli Orientali del Friuli. The Furlan family bought the property, which includes the magnificent “Castle of Cosa”, in 1976. Originally built in the year 1000 as a defensive structure, the castle was seriously damaged during WW I and was rebuilt in 1921 as a Palladian Villa. The castle (villa) has been lovingly restored by the Furlans who now use it as the center of their operations where they produce a wide range of wines from both native and international varieties of red and white grapes. The native Ribolla Gialla I enjoyed had a striking, gold-tinged straw color and a nose of pineapple, banana, and apple. Pleasantly dry in the mouth. In spite of being vinified and aged in stainless, it felt rich and warm.

Fratelli Barba Montepulciano d‘Abruzzo “Colle Morino” (2006) Abruzzo

An inexpensive treat from Barba, a small family winery situated in the north part of Abruzzo along the valley of the Vomano River and on the surrounding hills. In addition to grapes, the Barba family, which is made up of brothers Vincenzo, Giovanni, and Domenico and their families, manufacture bricks, grow fruit, lumber, and livestock. High-tech winery. The care in which the Barba’s farm their property is evident in their wine. Often, a Montepulciano d‘Abruzzo is a poorly made, high-alcohol varietal that is drunk with pizza. This wine, however, is terrific. Rich nose of dark berries and stone fruit. Velvety on the palate with nice acidity. Full, round finish and good length. Vinified and aged in stainless. Well made.

Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco DOCG (2003) Piemonte

A quality, affordable Barbaresco from Produttori del Barbaresco. Produttori del Barbaresco is a large cooperative that was founded in 1958 which sources grapes from a growers association that dates back to 1894. At that time in Barbaresco, Nebbiolo grapes were either sold to make Barolo or simply labeled Nebbiolo. Domizio Cavazza, headmaster of the Royal Enological School of Alba and a Barbaresco resident understood that there were differences between Nebbiolo grapes grown in the Barolo district as those grown in the Barbaresco district so he created a cooperative known as the "Cantine Sociali" to produce a wine that identified Barbaresco as its place of origin on the label. The "Cantine Sociali" was forced to close in the 1920's because of fascist rule, but in 1958, nineteen small Nebbiolo growers again came together to form the Produttori del Barbaresco cooperative. The cooperative currently has 56 members and 250 acres of Nebbiolo vineyards in the Barbaresco appellation, which amounts to almost 1/6 of the vineyards of the area; each member being in full control of its land. They produce a Barbaresco DOCG; a blend of Nebbiolo grapes harvested from different vineyards, and a simpler Nebbiolo Langhe suited for earlier consumption. In great vintages, nine single-vineyard Barbaresco’s are produced from premium sites within the Barbaresco village boundaries. The cooperative produces around 420,000 bottles (35,000 cases) per year. In those great vintages, they are divided among Barbaresco (40%), single vineyard Barbaresco’s (40%) and Nebbiolo Langhe (20%). 2003 was a hot summer in Piemonte, so the wine does not have a particularly tannic bite that requires long aging. Nice, fragrant nose of black cherry and spices. Soft tannins. Aged for 20 months in oak casks. Very drinkable as a young wine. Widely distributed, so it’s a wine that's easy to obtain. Albeisa bottle.

Albino Armani “Foja Tonda” Casetta (2005) Veneto

A brooding Italian red from Giorgio’s pale brother, Albino. His small winery is located north of Verona, near Trentino. The "Foja Tonda" I enjoyed is made from the Casetta grape or "Foja Tonda" in dialect; a variety which is indigenous to the area and cultivated since antiquity. Spicy, musky nose of dried plums. Tastes wild and overgrown. Tarty acidity. Although I have no recollection what I paired it with, it was a good companion. Definitely something different and worth looking for.

Inama Carmenere Piu (2006) Veneto

A plush Italian red wine from Inama, a thirty hectare winery located in the heart of the Soave Classico district. In the 1990’s Inama decided to expand production to include red wines and, after much research, settled on the Colli Berici, 10 miles east of Soave in the neighboring province of Vicenza. ‘Più’ which means ‘more’ in Italian is an apt name for the wine, as it contains more then just Carmenere (introduced in the region in the 19th century). The wine also contains 20% Merlot and 5% Raboso Veronese. All three varieties are 100% de-stemmed by Punjab laborers. Inama utilizes Indian labor because they work in "Inama's" way, with "no preconceptions or local cultural heritage" which Inama feels are often responsible for the lack of growth of many local enterprises - I'm not so sure about that. The wine is aged in used 225 Liter French oak barriques for 12 months. A final racking is followed by a gentle pad filtration before bottling. The wine is un-fined. Vivid ruby color. Dark fruit nose. Full body, smooth tannins. Very enjoyable.

Kante Carso Vitovska (2005) Friuli-Venezia Giulia

A spectacular Italian white wine from Kante, a small winery in the Carso D.O.C. of Friuli. Carso, which was granted its D.O.C. status in 1985, is located on a plateau above the town of Trieste near the Slovenian border. It is here that owner Edi Kante produces some of the best white wines in Italy. The 2005 Vitovska is made from an indigenous grape of the same name that has been cultivated in the area for generations. The wine is a brilliant straw yellow color that sparkles in the glass. Vibrant acidity. Wonderfully fragrant. Beautifully balanced. A terrific wine. The only problem is that the 500ml bottle does not provide enough to enjoy.

Ermacora Friulano (2007) Friuli-Venezia Giulia

A traditional Friulano (formerly known as Tocai Friulano) from Ermacora, a small winery located in the D.O.C. Colli Orientali of Friuli. Specialists in Friulian whites, Ermacora’s wines are made with a "green" touch. The land is interspersed with wooded areas populated with wildlife and a stream providing diverse ecology for the vineyards. They also rely on an aggressive use of clover and dandelions to protect their vines. The wine exhibits the classic Friulano characteristics; apple and pear on the nose and palate, with perhaps too much of the bitter almond notes. Crisp acidity. Aged in stainless steel. Clean, long finish.

Grandma Lee

Repulsive.

Casali Aurelia Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso (2007) Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Something different from Casali Aurelia, a family-owned Friulian winery that is member of the Consorzio DOC Friuli Annia, whose geographic area lies along the old Roman Strada Annia. The wine is made from the Refosco dal Peduncolo (meaning “Red Stem”) grape, an indigenous sub-variety of the Refosco grape that purportedly was praised by Pliny the Elder in the first century for the quality of wine it produces. (Even if this is not true, it’s fun to give Pliny the Elder a mention) The wine is ruby-red in color and violet highlights with an herbaceous nose of dark stone fruits and berries. Tannic. Slightly bitter. I have not had enough of this grape to know whether its unpleasant characteristics are the varietal or the winemaking. Could Pliny the Elder be wrong?

Belisario Terre Di Valbona Verdicchio di Matelica (2007) Marche

A Twitter-like review of a great summer wine from Belisario, a co-op started in the early 70’s that has become the world’s largest producer of Verdicchio. To lend a small-town feel to the wine, each label in Belisario’s portfolio is from its own vineyard. The Terre Di Valbona Verdicchio is a brilliant straw yellow color with hints of greenish-yellow. Fragrant nose of apple, pear and peach. Crisp acidity. Terrific food wine. Aged for two months in stainless steel. Inexpensive, but doesn’t drink like it.

Tenimenti La Lepre Dolcetto Diano d’ Alba (2004) Piemonte

I know, I know, not another wine from Piemonte. The bottle however, caught my eye. Purchased in Winestyles, a bad franchised wine store, Tenimenti’s La Lepre; Italian for "The Lepre" (hare, actually), looked formidable. "We serve this wine at our, blah, blah, blah" said the franchisee. "2004 is pretty old for a Dolcetto" I responded. A blank stare followed. I later learned that Tenimenti is a new brand from long-time winemaker Fontanafredda that showcases wines made from grapes grown on the estate's own vineyards or by growers supported by Fontanafredda's 125 years of technical know-how. Fontanafredda’s "Mad Men" state that "The new logo - incorporated into an original line of labels - also appears on the bottle, which is itself brand-new. The change in the bottle is destined to be the most striking element: for the first time in its history, Fontanafredda is leaving behind its unmistakable, traditional burgundy bottle for a wide-shouldered Bordeaux bottle." As full of crap as that sounds, it worked. I picked up the bottle from the shelf and admired its heft. "What power this wine must have" I thought. So in spite of its age and knowing nothing else about the wine; I bought a bottle. I was quite surprised. The wine was a delight. 100% Dolcetto, grown on a 2.55 hectare vineyard located in the village of Diano d'Alba, the wine was a beautiful deep ruby-red with violet highlights. Fruity nose of plums and cherries. Very slight tannins; well balanced. Fermented in stainless and aged a short time (four months) in barriques. Very enjoyable. I’d buy it again.

Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo (2005) Piemonte

A delight from Vietti, a family owned Piedmontese winery that produces nearly 20 different wines from estate-owned vineyards (about 80 acres) and contract growers. The family’s involvement in the winery dates back to 1919. They were one of the first wineries to select and vinify grapes from single vineyards, one of the first to export wine to the United States and are credited with rediscovering and promoting the Arneis, a now famous white wine from Roero area, north of Barolo. The 2005 Perbacco is 100% Nebbiolo, with the grapes being selected from different vineyards in the area of Scarrone of Castiglione Falletto and from Ravera in the Village of Novello. Following its fermentation in stainless steel tanks, the wine is moved into barriques for 10 months, and then transferred in oak cask for other 16 months. Prior to bottling, the wine rests for a few months in steel tanks. The wine is a haunting (not really; I just wanted to write that) pale ruby color with aromas of ripe cherries, dark fruit and spice. Well-balanced with a hauntingly (again; not really) smooth finish. Since 1974, certain Vietti wines have been adorned with original works of art inspired by the wine of that particular vintage. The print run is the same as the number of bottles produced, and the first hundred labels are signed by the artist. Certainly wines worth looking for. I have enjoyed every Vietti wine I have tried. Albeisa bottle.

Abdul Mulls Offer From “The Italian Cellar”

David Sonenberg, manager for American Idol judge Paula Abdul, has reportedly confirmed that the former singer is mulling an offer to not return to Idol for a ninth season and instead write for an obscure, little-known Italian wine blog.

“The near total anonymity gained by writing for The Italian Cellar would be a refreshing change of pace from the pressure and crush of publicity associated with American Idol.” Abdul said “It’s read by practically no one.”

Reports state that Abdul would be a perfect fit for The Italian Cellar, as her affinity for Italian wine is well known. “I enjoy the grippy tannins of a properly aged Barbaresco as a counterpoint to the truffle-like essence of a handful of large animal tranquilizers or the vibrant acidity of a Tocai Friulano when paired with anything by GlaxoSmithKline.” Abdul said.

News of this possible career change for Abdul apparently has Idol officials reeling, as they would not return any requests for comment.

Piazzo Dolcetto d' Alba "Scaletta" (2005) Piemonte

A tasty Italian red wine from Piazzo, a small multi-generational winery located on the hills of the Langhe. Selected from the best lots of of Piazzo's Dolcetto, the wine is wonderfully fragrant, with a deep-hued ruby red/violet color. Aged four months in oak. Very nice for what is usually a simple wine. Albeisa bottle.

Stimulus Package!

You go Barry! (and Nicolas!)

Domenico Clerico Barbera d’Alba “Trevigne” (2005) Piemonte

A fantastic Barbera from Domenico Clerico, who Robert Parker calls "One of the most gifted winemakers in Piedmont...these are wines of extraordinary richness, amazing aromatics, and sensual personalities that satiate both the hedonistic and the intellectual senses." Bob’s lyrical prose aside, Clerico IS one of the most respected names in all Barolo, and his wines are renowned for both winemaking of the highest quality and for exceptional character derived from outstanding vineyard holdings in some of the greatest crus of Monforte. As with the other greats of Piedmont, Clerico’s Barbara and Dolcetto are an easy and affordable way to enjoy the genius of the winemaker, and represent two of the greatest wines made from those varietals. An agronomist first, Clerico practices "green" farming methods; he uses no systemic plant protection products; no herbicides; and when needed, only the lightest touch of organic fertilizer (manure). Clerico’s single-cru Barbera d’Alba "Trevigne" is 100% Barbera that is matured for over a year in French oak barriques, 40% of which are new. Intense, purple/red color. Strong nose of red berries and fruit. Very soft, velvety mouth feel. Effortless to drink. Because of my brother-in-law’s diet, I was forced to drink it all myself.

Bastianich Rosato (2008) Friuli-Venezia Giulia

A refreshing summer Rose from Bastianich, a 70 acre Friulian winery founded in 1997 by superstar chef Lidia Bastianich and her follically-challenged son Joe. The wine is made from 100% Refosco, a grape known for producing spicy reds with dark fruit flavors. To make their Rosato, winemakers Emilio Del Medico, Maurizio Castelli, de-stem, soft press, then ferment in stainless steel 40% of the grapes. 50% of the grapes are then de-stemmed, soft pressed and fermented using some whole grape clusters with some brief skin contact to impart added aromas. The remaining 10% of juice (which imparts additional complexity to the wine) is derived from the Salasso method (a method whereby some juice is taken from the macerating Refosco that is used for Bastianich’s Vespa Rosso and Calabrone). After fermentation, the wines are blended and left to age in stainless steel for 4 months. The wine has a beautifully bright pink hue, with a terrific fruit nose and palate. Heavier than expected mouth-feel. Vibrant, refreshing acidity. Great on its own as a summer quaffer or with spicy foods. Stelvin screw cap.

Masseria Li Veli "Passamante" Salento IGT (2007) Puglia

A terrific Italian red wine from Masseria Li Veli, a small (66 hectares) Puglian winery, consisting of partly owned and partly leased vineyards, cultivated with Primitivo, Negroamaro, Susumaniello, Aleatico and Cabernet Sauvignon. Li Veli’s "Passamante" is 100% Negroamaro (which means dark-dark in the local dialect) that is aged for six months in wooden casks. Intense, dark ruby red color; highly perfumed with a strong, bright, red berry fruit nose. Well balanced acidity and tannins. Soft, velvety finish. Was great with grilled flat iron steak and grilled vegetables.

Pertinace Dolcetto d’ Alba (2007) Piemonte

A very nice, clean Dolcetto from "Cantina Vignaioli Elvio Pertinace", a small cooperative of 15 Piemontese growers. Founded in 1972, Pertinace has been a long-time supplier of grapes to other top producers. Recent investments in their winery now allow them to take full advantage of their excellent vineyard sites under their own label. Traditionalists, Pertinace uses a combination of low yields in the vineyards, and TLC to allow the character of their fruit to be expressed in the wine. Critical acclaim has followed with positive reviews from the great oracles. The 2007 Dolcetto d’Alba is ruby red/violet in color and terrifically smooth to drink. Vinified and aged in stainless. A great every day, Italian wine.

Tenuta Garetto Tra Neuit e Di Barbera d’ Asti (2007) Piemonte

A terrific Barbera from Tenuta Garetto, a small (18 hectare) winery owned by Alessandro Garetto that produces about 100,000 bottles of mostly Barbera along with some Dolcetto, Grignolino and Chardonnay. High density (about 4,500 vines per hectare) planting. The winery has a range of vine ages from new (this wine) to 60-70 years old. 100% Barbera. Very deep, ruby-red color; nice fruit nose. Vinified and aged in stainless. Plush on the palate. Delicious with grilled meatstuffs.

Barry's New "Stache"

YEEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!

Podere Rocche Dei Manzoni di Valentino Migliorini “Bricco Manzoni” Langhe (2000) Piemonte

An unpleasant "Super-Piedmont" from Podere Rocche Dei Manzoni di Valentino Migliorini; an estate that dates back to the 1700’s. The current iteration of the winery came into being in 1974 when Valentino Migliorini and his wife Jolanda bought the property and spent significant sums on improvements. Today, the Migliorini’s own about 100 prized acres, mostly in Monforte d’ Alba. In addition to several single-vineyard Barolo’s, the estate also produces Bricco Manzoni, a noxious blend of 80% Nebbiolo and 20% Barbera. The wine is fermented on the skins for two weeks in stainless steel vats, followed by 12 months of aging in oak barriques, and an additional 12 months in the bottle. Dull red in color. Heavy oak with some fruit on the nose. 90 rating by Parker. Heavy alcohol/gasoline on the palate. Brandy-like burn on the way down. Way not worth the overblown rating and price. 14% alcohol.

Marengo Valmaggiore Nebbiolo D’Alba (2004) Piemonte

An easy-to-overindulge, headache-inducing Italian red wine from Azienda Agricola Mario Marengo, a low environmental impact/sustainable/natural practicing Piemontese winery. The winery is run by son Marco, who took over for his Father Mario after his passing in 2001. The winery produces about 5,000 bottles a year on their tiny, 1.5 hectare estate. They produce two, single vineyard Barolo’s; Brunate and Bricco Viole as well as small quantities of Dolcetto and the Nebbiolo d'Alba I enjoyed. The 2004 Valmaggiore (named after Marengo’s really tiny .38 hectare vineyard) is 100% Nebbiolo that I found unusually refreshing and fruity both on the nose and palate. The wine is vinified in stainless and aged for 18 months in oak barriques (30% new). Albeisa bottle. A couple of après-wine Advil knocked the headache right out. (maybe it was the lack of pesticides)