Bruno Giacosa Barbera d' Alba (2006) Piemonte

Another wonderful, affordable introduction to one of Italy’s finest winemakers, Bruno Giacosa’s 2006 Barbera d' Alba shines as an outstanding food-friendly, approachable wine. The Giacosa family has been making wine in the Langhe region of Piedmont for three generations. Bruno Giacosa credits his winery’s success to his respect for traditional winemaking methods which enhance the characteristics of Piedmont's varietals. The wine is medium-bodied with bright acidity, lots of dried cherry fruit and a rich, smooth finish. Nice, soft use of oak (aged for 11 months in large French oak barrels). Sampling a Piedmontese superstars everyday wines like this Barbera is a great way to enjoy the winemakers skill without spending a $100 and waiting 10 years or more for their Barolo’s and Barbaresco’s to come into their own.

Caldora Montepulciano d' Abruzzo (2006) Abruzzo

A nice, affordable Montepulciano d' Abruzzo from Caldora, a young partnership between Valentino Sciotti, renowned winemaker Mario Ercolino, and one of the largest cooperatives in Abruzzo. Most of their vast holdings lie between the Adriatic coast and Mount Maiella. Their Montepulciano d' Abruzzo is 100% Montepulciano. It has a deep ruby-red color, with a heavy red/black fruit nose. Nice body; balanced acidity. Good everyday food wine.

The Brandy Old-Fashioned; Greatest Cocktail Ever

My apologies to the Italian wine world, but I want to share a recipe for what might be the greatest cocktail ever; the Brandy Old-Fashioned.

2 oz. brandy, preferably Korbel

1 oz simple syrup, preferably Stirrings or homemade

2 dashes Angostura bitters

splash of 7-Up

2 maraschino cherries

1 small orange slice

For the cocktail: Fill a 10 oz. old-fashioned glass with ice. Add bitters, simple syrup, brandy and stir. Top with 7-Up and garnish with cherries, threaded on a cocktail spear, and an orange slice. Enjoy. Repeat as necessary.

Montevertine Pian del Ciampolo (2006) Tuscany

A not-so-good Italian red wine from Montevertine, a luxe winery that I have heard great things about. Montevertine is situated in the heart of the Chianti district, halfway between Florence and Siena in the village of Radda. In 1981, the winery gave up its Chianti Classico designation in order to produce wines almost entirely of Sangiovese. The 2006 Pian del Ciampolo is nearly all Sangiovese with a small amount of Canaiolo blended in, and is the basic wine of the estate. Aged eighteen months in Slavonian oak. Montevertine states that the Pian del Ciampolo is the most "precocious" of their wines. Precocious, indeed. I found the wine watery and thin; completely devoid of substance. Absolutely no finish to speak of. Nice, smokey/earthy nose, however. Because of all the good press, I will, however, give the wine another shot.

Rod Blagojevich; Corrupt Politician, Potty Mouth, Italian Wine Lover

xx EXCLUSIVE xx The Italian Cellar has obtained a transcript of a secret F.B.I. recording of a recent dinner meeting between despotic Illinois Governor Rod Blagojevich and Senate Candidate Number 6 that not only reveals the Governor's psychosis, but his love for Italian wine.

Governor Blagojevich: "Hey (Senate Candidate Number Six) this mother-(Expletive Deleted) Barolo is (Expletive Deleted) golden!"

Senate Candidate Number 6: "Just think; when I'm in Washington, you'll be swimming in the stuff!"

Governor Blagojevich: "(Expletive Deleted)! Its (Expletive Deleted) tannic, acidic bite is excellent with roasted meats and hearty winter pasta. Hey! We're out of (Expletive Deleted) breadsticks! Where the (Expletive Deleted) is our (Expletive Deleted) waiter! Mother-(Expletive Deleted)!"

Senate Candidate #6: "Governor, we really need to get down to business."

Gov. B: "(Expletive Deleted)! Business can (Expletive Deleted) wait! I want my (Expletive Deleted) breadsticks!

Senate Candidate #6: "Governor! Get a hold of yourself!"

Governor Blagojevich: "(Expletive Deleted)! What the (Expletive Deleted)?!? Is this a (Expletive Deleted) microphone?!? Where the (Expletive Deleted) are (Expletive Deleted) breadsticks?!?"

Castel di Salve Armecolo Salento Rosso (2007) Puglia

A spicy Italian red wine from Castel di Salve, the most southerly estate in Puglia. Owned and run by Francesco Marra and Francesco Winspeare, the two began estate bottling small quantities of wine in the late 1980's. Today, they have over 100 acres under vine; producing about 12,000 cases of seven different wines. The 2007 Armecolo is 80% Negroamaro and 20% Malvasia nera di lecce. Strong nose of black fruits; deep color. Lively acidity. A little short on the finish. (like these sentences) Synthetic cork.

Cantine Salvalai Valpolicella Superiore Monile (2006) Veneto

A wonderful Valpolicella from Cantine Salvalai, a producer located on the Verona shore of Lake Garda in Veneto that has been making wines since 1870. Made of the usual blend of Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara, the wine has a striking red color and beautiful nose of jam and cherries. The wine is made in the Ripasso method, whereby a percentage of the grapes are dried prior to pressing. Aged in Slavonian and French oak barrels. The wine is incredibly smooth and completely effortless to drink. Terrific.

Somali Pirate Ransom Demand: "ITALIAN WINE!"

The Italian Cellar has learned that the ransom demand from the most recent Somali piracy incident is, not surprisingly, Italian wine. Admiral Mike Mullen, Chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff, reported that the Somali pirates are "apparently growing weary of drinking Tej or Honey Wine, and are looking for something different to enjoy with their zilzil tibs." "If you've ever had Tej, you'd understand our actions!" claimed pirate Sugule Ali. "It is rash, but we feel our demands for quality Italian wine are justified" Ali stated. Admiral Mullen further added that, "an Italian varietal like a Tocai Friulano or Dolcetto pairs well with the spicy food native to the homeland of the pirates, as well as Indian or Thai food." "Just thinking about it makes me drool like one of your filthy dogs!" Ali quipped.

Massino Rivetti Langhe Nebbiolo Bricco Avene (2006) Piemonte

Another nice, affordable Italian Wine from Massimo Rivetti; a small producer of the usual Piedmont suspects, located in Neive. Typical color and nose. Nice finish. As with his Dolcetto, I could not find anything about this mystery-man Massimo or his wine on the web or in print. Non-functioning website. Albeisa bottle. Made a nice beef with Barolo with enough leftover to enjoy with it. (three "withs" in one sentence; do not try to write like this at home kids, I am a professional)

Dezzani Roero Arneis Monfrigio (2007) Piemonte

Roero Arneis, a Piedmont native, is definitely a Italian varietal to try. Becoming increasingly available, its a versatile white that is great on its own or with food. The 2007 Dezzani Monfrigio is 100% Arneis that is grown in the Monfrigio vineyard, located in the Roero DOCG on the left side of the river Tanaro in Piedmont. A darker than usual straw-yellow color. Nice pear and tree fruit nose. Bright acidity. Soft, smooth texture. Priced for everyday drinking.

Armando Parusso Barolo Bussia Vigna Fiurin (1998) Piemonte

A terrific new world (read: more approachable in their youth) Barolo from Armando Parusso, a smallish (total production of about 130,000 bottles a year) Piedmont winery run by the brother and sister team of Marco and Tiziano Parusso. The winery owns 18 different vineyards located on the border between the Castiglion Falletto and the Monforte d' Alba appellation of Barolo that produce wines which display subtle differences due to site characteristics, as well as different aging and oak techniques. The 1998 Bussia Vigna Fiurin, highly rated by everyone who matters, is 100% Nebbiolo. The wine is brick-red in color with a characteristic orange-ish rim. Its nose is of smoky, spicy, roasted red fruit. Wonderfully integrated tannins. Smooth, long finish. In addition to Barolo, Parusso also produces a Nebbiolo Langhe, a Barbera, and a Dolcetto.

Arnaldo Caprai Grecante Grechetto dei Colli Martani (2006) Umbria

Something different from Arnaldo Caprai, a relatively young (1971)winery founded by textile magnate Arnaldo Caprai. Now run by son Marco, the winery, famous for its Sagrantino, also produces Grechetto, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet, and olive oil. The 2006 Grecante is 100% Grechetto, a native Umbrian grape that produces a darkish, straw-yellow, green-tinged wine. Very floral/fruity nose. Nice, balanced acidity. Very enjoyable as an aperitif. Vinified and aged in stainless steel.

Massimo Rivetti Dolcetto d' Alba Carlin Burel (2006) Piemonte

A tasty Dolcetto from Massimo Rivetti, a small producer of the usual Piedmont suspects, located in Neive. Dark purple in color with a strong black fruit nose. Nice finish. I could not find anything about this mystery-man Massimo or his wine on the web or in print. Non-functioning website. Albeisa bottle.

Grazie al Cielo!

Fattoria Le Pupille Morellino di Scansano (2005) Tuscany

As a contrast to small volume producer Elio Grasso, Fattoria Le Pupille cranks out hundreds of thousands of bottles of wine each year, but fortunately, just like Grasso, each bottle is terrific. Fattoria Le Pupille is a Maremma estate run by Elisabetta Geppetti and Stefano Rizzi (along with consultation from winemaker Christian La Sommer of Chateau Lafite). In addition to the Morellino di Scansano, the estate also produces a single vineyard Morellino, a "Super-Maremma" Cabernet blend and a dessert wine. The Morellino di Scansano DOC is located in southern Tuscany near the commune of Scansano. The wine is predominately Sangiovese with small amounts of Alicante and Malvasia blended in. The wine is deep, ruby-red in color and wonderfully fragrant. Deliciously fruity on the palate. Velvety smooth texture and finish. Vinified and aged in Stainless. Over 300,000 bottles produced annually. Synthetic cork.

Elio Grasso Dolcetto d' Alba dei Grassi (2006) Piemonte

A knockout from Elio Grasso, a small (produces less than 70,000 bottles a year) family run winery from the Langhe hill country near Alba in Piemonte. Patriarch Elio, wife Marina, and son Gianluca, think of themselves first as grape farmers and then as wine producers; characteristics they feel that make a difference in their wine. In addition to Dolcetto, they produce other native Piemontese varietals such as Nebbiolo and Barbera. Grasso has also planted non-native Chardonnay, "educating" the fruit to express the terroir into which it has been introduced. Wow. The 2006 Dolcetto is beautifully fruity, with a full nose and a bright, deep color. The wine is both vinified and aged in stainless steel. Just 7,000 bottles produced. Albeisa bottle.

Lamborghini Trescone (2004) Umbria

For many years Lamborghini wines was a hobby business for retired car maker Ferruccio Lamborghini. Today, the estate is run by Lamborghini's daughter Patrizia, and with the help of eonologist Riccardo Cotarella, they have made quality winemaking the focus of the estate. The 2004 Trescone is a delicious blend of 50% Sangiovese, 30% Ciliegiolo (a bright, cherry-scented grape grown mainly in neighboring Tuscany), and 20% Merlot. The wine is fermented in stainless and aged for four months in large oak barrels. Very much a fruit forward wine. Deep ruby-red in color with a cherry-berry nose. Has the finish of a well made wine.

Stefano Farina Barbera d’Alba (2006) Piemonte

Understanding the importance of text messaging to everyone from motorists to train engineers, I decided to write this brief Italian wine review in text. Njoy. A solid, value-priced Barbera frm Stefano Farina, a kin pwnge winemaker W estates n Tuscany n Piemonte. md frm 100% Barbera grown witn d Province of Cuneo n Piemonte. nce hue n cherry noz. <) frndly pH.

Garofoli Podium Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore (2005) Marche

An unusually rich, substantial Verdicchio from Garofoli, a historic family run Marche estate dating back to the late 1870's. Now run by brothers Gianfranco and Carlo Garofoli, they produce nearly two million bottles of wine a year (more than 60% Verdicchio) on about 50 hectares (125 acres) of vineyards in the communes of Montecarotto, Ancona, and Castelfidardo. The wine is 100% Verdicchio and has a beautiful golden yellow color with slight green highlights. Full nose of ripe citrus. Crisp acidity with a weighty mouth feel brought about by the delayed harvesting of the grapes. High-toned finish. Aged in stainless steel for 15 months. Terrific.

Piaggia Carmignano Riserva (2003) Tuscany

A beautifully expressive wine from Piaggia, a tiny (12 acre) estate located in the heart of Carmignano. Started in 1990 by clothing manufacturer turned winemaker Mauro Vannucci, Piaggia has quickly established itself as a critically acclaimed producer of fine wines. A DOCG wine in the good years, in less favorable years Signor Vannuci declassifies the wine into an IGT called Il Sasso or even sells it off as bulk wine. Carmignano is a small DOCG located west of Florence. Because it lies north of the Chianti Classico DOCG, its slightly cooler weather means the Sangiovese has a harder time to ripen fully. The cooler temperature also require vineyards to have an easterly exposure to maximize the morning sun. As a result, the Sangiovese of Camignano are lighter in body, higher in acid and more fragrant than the Sangiovese of Chianti. Cabernet (20% maximum allowed by law with up to 10% other varietals) are blended with the Sangiovese to fill out the darker fruit range of aromas and strengthen the structure of the wine. Wines from Carmignano seem more elegant than the more robust style of the Super-Tuscans which are made mostly from warmer southern varietals. The 2003 Riserva is a blend of 70% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot. Made in the modern style, with the maceration of the Sangiovese and Merlot taking place in stainless vats and the Cabernet in French oak tanks. The wine is aged for 24 months in French oak barrels and 12 months in the bottle prior to release. Nice, deep ruby color. Full nose of black cherry. Warm and rich on the palette. Silky, smooth finish. As with Ambra, the wine has a classy label.

Fontanafredda Briccotondo Barbera (2007) Piemonte

**DISCLAIMER** My lack of enthusiasm for this wine is through no fault of the wine, but rather from a general malaise brought about by the daily deluge of general bad news, seemingly about everything. Anyway, the 2007 Briccotondo is an otherwise solid Barbera from Fontanafredda, an estate founded in the late 1800's by Emanuele Guerreri, son of King Victor Emmanuel II, first King of a united Italy. Dark purple-ish/red color. Full nose of black fruit. Nice acidity. Added richness and finish provided by nearly 1/2 year aging in a mix of new French oak barrels and large Slavonian oak casks. Very ugly black, white, red, and silver label.

Statti Gaglioppo (2006) Calabria

This wine is why I think Italian wines are so great; a delicious red from a place few people have heard of, made from a grape known by fewer still. The 2006 Statti Gaglioppo hails from Calabria, the sun baked “toe” of the Italian boot. Calabria is one of the 20 regions of Italy who in total, produce hundreds of different varietals, most of them limited to a very small geographical area of production. The Gaglioppo is just such a grape. Suspected of being related to an ancient Greek varietal or the Sicilian Frappato, the Gaglioppo is well adapted to the exceedingly hot and dry conditions in Calabria. The 2006 Statti Gaglioppo is 100% Gaglioppo (read: not tainted with any other grapes you never heard of). The Statti estate, owned by Alberto and Antonio Statti, is over 500 hectares in size, making it one of the largest in the region. Besides growing indigenous varietals (Gaglioppo and Mantonico, a white grape used in sweet nectars) they produce olive oil, grow vegetables and raise livestock. Fermented and aged in stainless, the wine has an intense ruby red color and a strong nose of cherries and spice. Fruit-bombish in taste, but at the same time, softly tannic. Beautifully textured mouth feel; nice smooth finish. Well worth the trouble to find. I look forward to trying more wines from this region.

Bivio Tuscan Red IGT (2006) Tuscany

Nothing super about this Super-Tuscan. A blend of 65% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Merlot from Bivio, a partnership of 585 Wine Partners of Sonoma (best known for their Picket Fence and Red Truck wines) and Gruppo Italiano Vini (GIV). Bivio’s Italia Range includes a Chianti, a Tuscan Red, and the ubiquitous Pinot Grigio. A statement from one of their press releases reads as follows: “The wines will feature bright, colorful labels in a palette evocative of their country of origin. With a reference to both classic and contemporary Italy, the labels depict a stylized image of an Italian scooter and an iconic shield reminiscent of Italian racecars.” What?!?! Clearly more time was spent on the label then on the wine. I found the 2006 Tuscan Red to be almost Smuckers-like in its jammy fruitiness, with a nose and color of cherry jello. Luckily, the wine has a short finish so you aren’t subjected to it for very long. My seventy-nine year old father, who enjoys wine by mixing his “under the sink” red with Diet Squirt (a.k.a. “A Big Shot”), found the wine to be “sweet”. That’s “sweet” as in “yuck”, not “sweeeeeeet”.

Paitin Sori Paitin Barbaresco (2000) Piemonte

A beautifully perfumed Barbaresco from a venerable Piemontese winemaker. The history of this winemaker borders on the ridonkulous; a few historical highlights: The farmstead and vineyards were purchased by Benedetto Elia in 1796 (Napoleon and Josephine were married); their first Barbaresco was bottled in 1893 (Columbian Exposition in Chicago); they began exporting wine in 1898 (Remember the Maine!). 212 years after its founding, the estate is now run by Secondo Pasquero-Elia, along with his sons Giovanni and Silvano. 2000 was a great year in Piemonte (George Bush was elected President??!!) and the 2000 Sori Paitin, with its elegant ripe tannins, does not disappoint. The wine is 100% Nebbiolo that has a beautiful garnet red color and characteristic orange rim. The wine receives nearly two years of aging; 60% in Slavonian oak casks and 40% in French oak barriques, which give it a wonderful soft, round finish. I enjoyed this wine with Mario Batali's Garganelli al Ragu d'Anatra. (http://www.mariobatali.com/) I used chicken thighs in the recipe because my daughter, due to her beliefs regarding animal cruelty, will not eat anatra.

Sandrone Barbera d' Alba (2004) Piemonte

A ordinarily simple wine becomes sublime at the hands of winemaker extraordinaire Luciano Sandrone. Since the late 1970's, the former cellarman and his brother Luca have been making some of the worlds finest wines (particularly their Barolo's) on 63 acres of vineyards located in the best part of the Langhe and Roero. Experts like Parker and Galloni consider Sandrone's Barolos to be marvels; soft and approachable when young, yet capable of substantial aging. The grapes for his Barbera come from three different vineyards; two in Novello and one Monforte d' Alba. The grapes are vinified separately in steel fermentors. Maloactic fermentation and 12 months of aging take place in 500 liter French oak barrels (20 -25% new). The wine receives an additional 9 months of aging in the bottle. Beautiful black fruit on the nose, with a voluptuous, smooth texture and finish. Albeisa bottle.

Senator John McCain’s Goiter - Sub Dermal Protrusion, Italian Wine Lover

In a continuing series on the 2008 Presidential election, The Italian Cellar is pleased to present an exclusive interview with another lover of Italian wine, Senator John McCain’s goiter.

The Italian Cellar: "Senator McCain’s Goiter, thank you for taking time out of your busy schedule for this interview."

Senator McCain’s Goiter: "It’s a pleasure to be here – and by here, I mean both doing this interview and on the Senator’s face."

TIC: "What first attracted you to Italian wine?"

Sen.McC'sG: "Well, since I am a goiter, I can’t see or smell, so I think I would have to say taste. Because of their wonderful sense of proportion; the balance of fruit, acid and tannin, Italian wines accentuate, rather than dominate the food they’re served with. The regional differences of Italy also impart their nuances on the wine; the heat of Puglia adds spice, the fog of the Langhe helps ripen the plush Nebbiolo. The regional nuances are also reflected in the regional foods; each is blessed by one another’s company. Italian wines are truly unique in this regard."

TIC: "Has Senator McCain had you looked at by a doctor?"

Sen.McC'sG: "I’m asked that all the time. Of course he has; the Senator has been declared fit as any seventy-one year old man with skin cancer and a goiter!"

TIC: "Red or White?"

Sen.McC'sG: "Red, of course!"

TIC: "How does someone not know how many houses they own?"

Sen.McC'sG: "Well…..you know the words "house" and "own" can be tricky things to define….."

TIC: "Sarah Palin??!!"

Sen.McC'sG: "No comment."

TIC: "Senator McCain’s Goiter; thank you for your time."

Sen.McC'sG: "It was my pleasure."

Primaterra Primitivo (2005) Puglia

An inexpensive, spicy Italian red wine from Primaterra; a funky, young winery from Puglia. Puglia (the sun baked heel of the Italian boot) was formerly a mass producer of bulk wines, but because government subsidies for the large co-ops have been drastically reduced in recent years, the area has been slowly evolving into a producer of better quality bottled wines; particularly their two most popular reds, Negroamaro and Primitivo. The 2006 Primaterra Primitivo is 100% Primitivo, a clone of the California Zinfandel (an American wine that’s one of my favorites) that has a nice spice from the Puglian heat, and a ripe dark fruit nose. A perfect wine for an end of the summer barbeque. 40% of the wine is aged in oak and the remainder is aged in stainless steel. The partial oak aging slightly softens the spice and helps smooth the finish. All of Primaterra’s wines have a cartoon line drawing on the label; the Primitivo has a drawing of a hen laying an egg. Synthetic cork.

Aldo Conterno Dolcetto Masante (2006) Piemonte

A delicious, luxurious, everyday Italian red wine from Poderi Aldo Conterno, whose Barolos consistently rank as some of the finest wines in the world. Their vineyards, located in the heart of the Langhe, enjoy both the choicest soil and exposure. This, coupled with the skill gleaned from five generations of winemaking that both respect tradition and embrace technology, is a recipe for outstanding wine. While Conterno's Barolos are priced beyond everyday enjoyment, their Dolcetto's (and Barbera's) are wines that exhibit all the breeding and talent given to their more expensive cousins. The 2006 Aldo Conterno Dolcetto Masante is full of fruit on the palette (the wine both vinified and aged in stainless steel) and has a long, smooth finish; a wine that is terrific with food or on its own. Albeisa bottle.

Potazzine Rosso di Montalcino (2004) Tuscany

A below average Italian red wine from winemaker Giuseppe Gorelli of Le Potazzine, a new (1993) Tuscan estate dedicated solely to the growing of Sangiovese Grosso. Their Rosso di Montalcino is made from 100% Sangiovese Grosso (the same grape used to make Brunello) that are planted near the hilltop town of Montalcino. Following maceration for about 30 days, the wine is aged for 12 months; partly in Slavonian oak casks and partly in French oak barriques. The Wine Advocate, who rated the 2004 with an 88, called the wine “beautifully expressive” with “excellent length and freshness on the finish”. I found the wine watery and thin, with a short, flat finish. Cute chickadee’s on the label, though.

Joe Biden - Our Next Vice-President, Verbose Gaffer, and Italian Wine Lover

The Italian Cellar is pleased to report on another lover of Italian wine, Delaware Senator Joe Biden, who on Saturday was selected by Barack America to be his Vice Presidential running mate. Biden, whose verbosity is only outmatched by his follicular challengedness (is that a word?), was reportedly chosen by Obama because of his vast foreign policy experience garnered by years of serving as the Chair of the Senate Committee on Foreign Relations. Interestingly enough, Biden failed to use this vast experience and voted in support of invading Iraq. Biden is also famous for two other things; his ability to put his foot in his mouth and his love of Italian wine; sometimes even mixing the two. Let's look at a couple of examples of this: When announcing his candidacy for the Presidency in the spring of 2007, Biden mused about a Bruno Giacosa Dolcetto as "The first mainstream Italian wine that is articulate, clean, and nice looking." In another instance, Biden, when speaking to an Indian-American supporter, said that in Delaware, "You cannot go into a 7-Eleven to buy a Rosso di Montalcino unless you have an Indian accent!" But after eight years of tee totalling with recovering alcoholic George Bush, The Italian Cellar looks forward to an Italian wine lover in the White House.

Nino Franco Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Rustico (NV) Veneto

A tasty off-dry Prosecco from Nino Franco, a winery located in the Valdobbiadene zone of Veneto; an area known for producing Italy’s finest Prosecco. In addition to serving on the governing board for the Prosecco DOC, third generation winemaker Primo Franco produces a full range of Prosecco, from bone-dry to slightly sweet, including a dry Rose called Faive made from Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Franco’s Rustico (their best seller and lying ½ way between dry and sweet) is made from 100% Prosecco that receives both its initial and second fermentation in stainless steel. I enjoyed this wine as the base for Bellini cocktails.

Gerardo Cesari Boscarel (2005) Veneto

A surprisingly good Italian red wine from Cesari, a large producer of inexpensive Veronese wines, including Amarone, Soave, and Valpolicella. Their 2005 Boscarel is a blend of 50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet, and 15% Sangiovese that are grown on Cesari’s Boscarel vineyard, which lies in the region of Calmisano, on the Verona side of Lake Garda in Veneto. Each grape is fermented separately then blended together prior to winter storage. The wine is bottled the following spring. The wine has a deep, ruby-red color and a strong nose of dark berries. The wines greatest feature is its rich, voluptuous mouth feel and long, smooth finish. A very elegant wine at a modest price.

Tenuta Olim Bauda Gavi di Gavi (2006) Piemonte

A light Italian white wine from Tenuta Olim Bauda, a relatively small (61 acres of vineyards) Piemontese winery owned by the Bertolino family. The Bertolino family, known mostly for Barbera's, boast of an unbroken line of four generations of estate ownership and winemaking. Their 2006 Gavi di Gavi is 100% Cortese that is fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel. The wine is a typical Gavi; light in body, color; with balanced acidity and a delicate floral nose. The wines petite frame may be too unsubstantial for some tastes.

La Valentina Montepulciano d’ Abruzzo (2005) Abruzzo

A sturdy, Italian red wine from La Valentina, a new (1990) winemaker from the town of Spoltore, located in the hills near Pescara, a few miles from the Adriatic in Abruzzo. The winery continues to increase their use of "green" farming methods that limit the use of chemicals and technology in order to allow the regions special qualities to mark the wine. La Valentine’s Montepulciano is deep, ruby-red in color with a full, dark-berry nose. 15% of the wine is aged in wood. The remainder is aged in stainless and cement before its all blended together and bottled. For my taste, the wine is a little abrupt on the finish. La Valentina also makes several single-vineyard Montepulciano’s that are grown on premium sites and receive more wood aging.

Piazzo Langhe Chardonnay (2007) Piemonte

An elegant Italian white wine from Piazzo, a small multi-generational winery located on the hills of the Langhe. Made of 100% Chardonnay (grown in Piemonte since the late 1800's) that sees no oak; the wine is both a terrific partner for seafood or on its own. A refreshing change from over-oaked California Chardonnay. Albeisa bottle.

Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano (2007) Tuscany

A delicate, floral Italian white wine from Fontaleoni, a small (28 hectare) Tuscan producer of Vernaccia, Sangiovese, Merlot, and Chardonnay. The estate was established in 1959 when the Troiani family, vignerons for generations, moved to Tuscany. In the 1990's the estate was rebuilt, the cellar renovated, and new vineyards were planted; all to improve quality. The estate practices "lotta integrata" and "inerbimento" viticultural practices (which sound sexier than integrated pest management and the use of cover crops) in order to produce a "green" white wine. Fontaleoni's Vernaccia is clear, straw-yellow in color with a light, peachy nose. This soft, fresh wine pairs well with similarly light dishes. Fontaleoni also produces a critically acclaimed single-vineyard Vernacci/Chardonnay blend called Vigna Casanuova.

The Reverend Jesse Jackson: “Cutter-Off of Nuts” and Italian Wine Lover

The Italian Cellar has discovered through a careful examination of the videotape of Reverend Jesse Jackson’s recent “hot-mic” incident, that not only is he still a relevant political figure, but a lover of Italian wine as well. Let’s take a look at the Fox News transcript of the July 9th episode of "The O'Reilly Factor," in which Reverend Jackson leaned over and whispered to fellow panelist Dr. Reed V. Tuckson, executive vice president and chief of medical affairs for UnitedHealth Group:

Reverend Jesse Jackson: “See, Barack been, um, talking down to black people on this faith based ... I want to cut his nuts off ... Barack ... he's talking down to black people." (Jackson appeared to make a stabbing or cutting motion with his hand as he made the remarks.)

Dr. Reed V. Tuckson: “Jesse, keep it down, the mic’s are on!”

Rev. JJ: “You know what Doc? After the show, what do you say we go out for some deep-dish and some dego red?” (Jackson appeared to make an eating and drinky motion with his hand as he made the remarks.)

Dr. RVT: “Uh, we’ll see Jesse.” (Dr. Tuckson appeared to roll his eyes in disbelief.)

Rev. JJ: “Do you know what word rhymes with Montepulciano?”

Reverend Jackson did not reply to requests for comment by The Italian Cellar.

Castello di Luzzano Carlino Bonarda (2006 ) Lombardia

A 20 megaton fruit-bomb from Italian winemaker Castello di Luzzano. The 120 hectare estatate, recently purchased by the Flying Fugazza sisters, Giovannella and Maria, lies in the Oltrepo Pavese DOC in Lombardy near the border with the region of Emilia-Romagna. Made of 100% Croatina (Bonarda), and aged entirely in stainless, this Italian wine is dark, ruby-red/purple in color with a beautiful young fruit nose. I was disappointed with the short length. (Thankfully, I have never heard that said of me - then again, I don’t hear that well.) The wines fantasy name is the nickname of winemaker Carlo Ferrari, who passed away a few years ago. The wines label is graced with a beautiful design taken from an 18th century vase found on the estate.

Damilano Langhe Arneis (2006) Piemonte

A refreshing Italian white wine from Damilano, a family run Barolo maker that has been around since the late 1800’s. From their small Piemontese winery, the great grandchildren of original owner Giuseppe Borgogno make a traditional line up of Barolo’s, Dolcetto’s, Barbera’s and Arneis. The 2006 Arneis is a light straw-yellow in color, with a fine, fruity nose. Aged entirely in stainless. Fresh and elegant, this wine is perfect with appetizers, fish and white meats. Albeisa bottle.

Ambra Carmignano Santa Cristina (2005) Tuscany

A terrific Italian red wine from Ambra, a smallish (18 hectacre) estate in the Carmignano DOCG, northwest of Florence in Tuscany. The Carmignano region was the first to allow Cabernet Sauvignon in a blend. Current regulations allow up to 50% of complimentary grapes to the Sangiovese with at least 10% being Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Franc. Because of the cooler temperatures, wines from Carmignano tend to be more leaner and fragrant then wines from the more southerly Chianti Classico DOCG. Ambra takes part in Measure No. 6 (EU Regulation 1257/94) which promotes sustainable development through the use of integrated insect and disease controls, organic fertilizer, and the use of "green manure". The Santa Cristina is a blend of 75% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Canaiolo, and 5% Colorino, Syrah, and Merlot. Ruby red in color with a powerful dark cherry nose. Smooth, long finish. Aged for 12 months; half in tonneaux and half in large oak casks. Possibly the classiest looking wine label of any wine. Also enjoyed by some wine-guy named Parker.

Alois Lageder Haberle Pinot Bianco (2005) Alto Adige/Sudtirol

A delicious Italian white wine from the premier estate in Alto Adige/Sudtirol. Lageder, whose approach to winemaking is almost Zen-like, offers wine in several distinct “classes”; Classic, which includes wine from the traditionally grown grapes of Alto Adige/Sudtirol; Single Vineyard, which make use of grapes from select, individual vineyards that are separately vinified; and Single Estate, which are the flagship wines of Alois Lageder made from grapes grown in exceptional locales and exposures that are matured in French oak barriques. Their Haberle Pinot Bianco hails from their Single Vineyard class. Brilliant straw-yellow in color. Very fine, apple/peach nose combined with a well integrated oak spice (the wine is fermented and aged for 3 months in stainless and then matured for 6 months in large slavonian oak casks). A clean, elegant, and fresh wine. I enjoyed this wine with Bucatini alla Gricia.

Santa Martina Rosso di Toscana (2005) Tuscany

An inexpensive, well-structured “Super-Tuscan” from Santa Martina. Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari’s Vigne a Porrona estate in Tuscany’s Maremma region and their Nozzole estate in Chianti Classico provide the fruit for this wine. Comprised of 40% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Syrah, the grapes are hand harvested and vinified separately. The Chianti and Maremma regions contribute specific qualities to the final blend. Soils in Chianti Classico have higher clay content well-suited to the Sangiovese portion of the blend and the Maremma’s unique climate and sandy soils are optimal for the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah grapes. The wine is both fermented and aged in stainless, so the fruit is unmasked; a nice contrast to often over-oaked Super-Tuscans. The full-bodied wine has an intense ruby red color with hints of violet and aromas of wild berries. It has a subtle, spicy bite which finishes smooth, and ripe, rounded tannins.

Tenuta L'Illuminata Dolcetto d'Alba Savincato (Piemonte) 2003

A tasty Dolcetto from Tenuta l'Illuminata, located in La Morra in the Langhe. The wine derives its fantasy name from the Savincati, a Celtic people that inhabited the Piemonte region around the first century B.C. Intense violet-red in color. A short (6-7 months) aging in oak smooths and lengthens the finish. Very food-friendly. All of Tenuta L'Illuminata's labels are adorned with moonlight images of grape clusters and leaves captured on special photo-sensitive paper (a process called rayographics) by Greek artist Dimitris Kozaris. "I like-a this juice."

The Smoking Gun Wine Review

June 24-- An Italian wine blog filed suit in Circuit Court last week, claiming that the 2003 Di Majo Norante Cantado Aglianico was a delicious full-bodied Italian red. Please click on the image to review the court documents.

Vietti Roero Arneis (2006) Piemonte

By the late 1960’s, Arneis, a white grape indigenous to Piedmont, had all but disappeared when Vietti’s Alfredo Currado saved it from extinction. Thankfully, his early experiments with the grape led to its rediscovery by other Piemontese winemakers. The grapes for Vietti’s Arneis are grown in the middle of the Roero area in Santo Stefano Roero. The fresh, crisp wine goes well with all antipasti, seafood, and poultry. Fermented and held entirely in stainless. A very creepy-weird label could scare younger or more sensitive drinkers.

Torre Quarto Bottaccia Uva di Troia 2004 (Puglia)

A powerful red from talented young winemaker Cristoforo Pastore, who produces wine for the Cirillo Farrusi family on their 60 hectacre estate in Puglia (the heel of the Italian boot). The wine is 100% Uva di Troia, an indigenous grape which resists the sun and hot temperatures of southern Italy. 60% of this full-bodied wine is aged in barriques; it has a stuffed-up nose of red berry fruits, powerful tannins and a round, somewhat spicy finish. "Bottaccia" is the Pugliese dialect for large barrel. I enjoyed this wine with grilled Chimichurra marinated NY strip steak.

Twilight Zone-Like Coincidences

Submitted for your approval, an Italian wine blog, neither informative nor fun, recently reviewed wines from two separate producers that both began making wines in 1972. What does this mean? Perhaps nothing, but coincidentally, the Sartarelli Verdicchio which was reviewed on June 12th, was the same wine mentioned in the May 21st imagined interview with 2008 American Idol winner and Italian wine lover David Cook (who interestingly enough, was not born in 1972). But what remains a mystery; a middle ground, if you will, is an area between light and shadow, between science and superstition that lies somewhere between the pit of man’s fears and the summit of his knowledge, is that 1972 was also the year in which the Andes plane crash occurred whereby the passengers resorted to cannibalism to survive......I wonder what wine would go good with that......

Sartarelli 2004 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico (Marche)

A fabulous wine from one of the top producers of Verdicchio; a crisp white from Marche (the back of the knee of the Italian boot). Following several years of selling their estates' entire grape production, in 1972, owners Donatella Sartarelli and Patrizio Chiacchianini began making their own wines, focusing entirely on Verdicchio. Sartarelli wines afford wine lovers the ability to taste wine vertically; not by year, but by richness and depth. The entry-level "Classico", is a textbook example of a verdicchio; citrusy and bright. The next level up is "Tralivio", which benefits from a more meticulous grape selection in the vineyard. The flagship "Balciana" gets further heft from the introduction of a small percentage of late harvest grapes. The "Classico" I enjoyed is an easy-drinking wine that pairs well with seafood, white meats, and appetizers.

G.D. Vajra Coste & Fossati Dolcetto d' Alba 2001 (Piemonte)

Since 1972, owners, Milena and Aldo Vaira have been producing Barolo, Barbera d'Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba, Langhe Nebbiolo, Freisa, and Bianco on a small-scale on their 40 hectare estate in Vergne, the highest village in the Commune of Barolo. Made in the traditional style, their Coste & Fossati Dolcetto d' Alba is a terrific example of the varietal. With generous fruit and judicious acidity, the wine is wonderfully food friendly. A wine worth looking for. Albeisa bottle.

5-7-5; A Few Poorly Written Italian Wine Haiku’s

Wines from Italy
Delicious both red and white
Better than Haiku

Fruity Dolcetto
Little sweet one, Piedmont bred
Drink up, enough said

Sangiovese
Chianti or Brunello
One glass of each please

Delicious white wine
With vibrant acidity
Roero Arneis

Angelo Gaja
Put Italy on the map
Way too expensive

Joe Bastianich
No hair on top of his head
Great new winemaker

Writers of wine blogs
Intelligent and handsome
Too much time on hands