Thursday, October 9, 2008

Piaggia Carmignano Riserva (2003) Tuscany



A beautifully expressive wine from Piaggia, a tiny (12 acre) estate located in the heart of Carmignano. Started in 1990 by clothing manufacturer turned winemaker Mauro Vannucci, Piaggia has quickly established itself as a critically acclaimed producer of fine wines. A DOCG wine in the good years, in less favorable years Signor Vannuci declassifies the wine into an IGT called Il Sasso or even sells it off as bulk wine. Carmignano is a small DOCG located west of Florence. Because it lies north of the Chianti Classico DOCG, its slightly cooler weather means the Sangiovese has a harder time to ripen fully. The cooler temperature also require vineyards to have an easterly exposure to maximize the morning sun. As a result, the Sangiovese of Camignano are lighter in body, higher in acid and more fragrant than the Sangiovese of Chianti. Cabernet (20% maximum allowed by law with up to 10% other varietals) are blended with the Sangiovese to fill out the darker fruit range of aromas and strengthen the structure of the wine. Wines from Carmignano seem more elegant than the more robust style of the Super-Tuscans which are made mostly from warmer southern varietals. The 2003 Riserva is a blend of 70% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot. Made in the modern style, with the maceration of the Sangiovese and Merlot taking place in stainless vats and the Cabernet in French oak tanks. The wine is aged for 24 months in French oak barrels and 12 months in the bottle prior to release. Nice, deep ruby color. Full nose of black cherry. Warm and rich on the palette. Silky, smooth finish. As with Ambra, the wine has a classy label.

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