La Scolca Gavi "White Label" (Piedmont) 2008

A refreshing Italian white from La Scolca, a 50 hectare, family-run Piemontese winery that was founded in 1919. Today, the Estate is run by Giorgio Soldati, the founder’s great-grandson, and his daughter, Chiara.  Although the Cortese grape (what Gavi is made from; the name is derived from Gavi, the town at the center of the wines production zone) had been planted in the region since the late 19th Century, the grape produced low-alcohol, thin wines that quickly oxidized.  It was the Soldati family, who after the Second World War saved the Cortese grape from oblivion by focusing entirely on the production of quality Cortese. They pioneered modern, controlled vinification in stainless-steel to preserve the subtle fruit of the Cortese grape, allowing for the creation of wines that retained crisp acidity, aroma, and structure.  All of La Scolca’s white wines follow the same vinification process: hand-harvested fruit is brought to the winery where it is sprayed with dry-ice, cryo-macerated and cold fermented using only natural yeasts.   The La Scolca Gavi di Gavi White Label is made from 20 to 30 year-old vines sourced within the Rovereto commune in the heart of Gavi.  Light straw in color with a typical "Gavi" nose that is fine and pleasantly fresh. Delicate and dry mouthfeel with crisp and refreshing acidity.

The Last Word

A superb gin-based cocktail created by vaudevillian Frank Fogarty in the early 1920's, where it was first served at the Detroit Athletic Club.  A recipe for the drink was first published in 1951 in Ted Saucier's (my middle name, btw) classic cocktail book "Bottoms Up!". The cocktail faded into obscurity until it was rediscovered in 2004 by Seattle's Zig Zag Cafe bartender Murray Stenson, when he came across Saucier's book.  As evidence to its renewed popularity, a recipe for the drink reappeared in the 2009 edition of the "Mr. Boston Official Bartender's Guide".  An equally superb variation to the drink is "The Final Ward", created by the New York bartender Phil Ward, who replaced the gin with rye whiskey and the lime juice by lemon juice.  The recipe is as follows: combine equal parts of gin (I prefer Plymouth), green Chartreuse, maraschino liqueur (I prefer Luxardo), and fresh lime juice.  Shake with ice and strain into a cocktail glass.  Garnish with a lime twist.  Enjoy responsibly.

 

 

Jasci L'Atteso Pecorino (2007) Abruzzo

An awful Italian white from Jasci, a 90 acre winery founded in 1970 by Donatella Jasci. In 1975, Donatella began experimenting with organic and biodynamic farming when his mother became allergic to pesticides. Since 1980, Jasci wines have been certified organic by the Soil and Health Association, which guarantees the organic production of their grapes, as well as their winemaking processes. Jasci is also one of only a few wineries to hold organic certification in every country in the world that offers such certification. 100% Pecorino, a grape native to the area that was recently brought back from the brink of extinction. The origin of the name is that the grape variety was once a favorite snack of the sheep that were often driven through vineyard lands on their way to lower pastures. In Italian “Pecora” means sheep.  The wine is the color of your urine if you were dehydrated and had tuna salad for lunch.  Old and musty; none of the lemon/peach/floral you would expect.  Hoch bottle.

Cosimo Maria Masini Nicole (2007) Tuscany

A fantastic Italian red from Cosimo Maria Masini, a biodynamic winery located near Pisa in Tuscany. The estate, where the farming of grapes and olives dates back to the 1600's, was purchased by Cosimo Masini (an engineer by trade) in 1999. On his twenty-five acres of vineyards, Masini grows the traditional grapes of Tuscany along with Cabernet, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Masini also produces high-quality artisanal olive oil from eleven acres of Frantoio, Leccino, and Moraiolo e Mignola Cerretanna (a rarely grown cultivar) trees. The 2007 Nicole (Masini names all of his wines after members of his family) is 100% Sangiovese. Pressed by the pedis, the wine is fermented in concrete vats using only airborne yeasts. Ruby-red. Beautiful fruit nose. Food friendly acidity. Un-oaked.

Colosi Nero d'Avola (2010) Sicily

Headquartered on Salina, a small island in the Eolian Archipelago near Sicily, Colosi produces terrific everyday reds as well as a sweet Malvasia delle Lipari. The 2010 Nero d'Avola is made from Colosi's best fruit that is vinified and aged (5 months) exclusively in stainless steel. Full-bodied with a sweet, dark cherry nose. Nice smooth, round finish, unlike some other southern Italians I've tangled with. Great value. Attractive label depicting the Black d'Avola vine and the Colosi flower.

Mario and Joe; A Couple of Real Douche-Bags

Mario Batali (who late last year criticized the financial industry for "toppling the way money is distributed" and compared Wall Street bankers to Hitler and Stalin) and business partner Joe Bastianich (who criticizes everything else) have agreed to pay $5.25 million to settle allegations that the duo cheated workers out of their tips. Workers sued the pair in July of 2010, accusing Batali and Bastianich of violating the Fair Labor Standards Act. According to the complaint (Capsolas v. Pasta Resources, Inc., 10-cv-05595, U.S. District Court, Southern District of New York; Manhattan), Batali and Bastianich pocketed gratuities equal to as much as 5 percent of the nightly wine sales, didn't pay minimum wage and failed to pay overtime in order to supplement their own profits (sounds like toppling the way money is distributed). When the suit was first filed, Bastianich stated in an interview that he intended to "fight the lawsuit to every inch of the law, because we know we are right". RRRRRRRRRRight. Following a call by Wall Street executives to boycott their restaurants, Batali also apologized for his Hitler and Stalin comments.

Fattoria Bibbiani "Treggiaia" (2008) Tuscany

A super Super-Tuscan from Fattoria Bibbiani, a small (12,000 cases annually) hilltop estate located about 10 miles west of Florence. The estate, which has been in owner Luigi Donato's family for over 150 years, is also home to the famed botanical gardens of Bibbiani and one of Italy's three oldest private theatres. Bibbiani's Treggiaia is a blend of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and is aged for 12-18 months in 2nd passage French oak barriques and 3 months in the bottle before release. Medium in body with a classic Tuscan color and nose. (I wanted to use a profile of Tony Bennett as the photo, but his ancestor's are from southern Italy) A terrific food-friendly red.

Antonio Sanguineti Chianti (2009) Tuscany

A delicious everyday Italian red from "Maestro" Antonio Sanguineti, a land-less winemaker who produces about 12,ooo bottles a year from grapes sourced throughout Tuscany. Made from 75% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Ciliegiolo, and 5% Colorino. Deep, dark red color. Strawberry/dark cherry nose. The Sangiovese is vinified in stainless for 20 days while the other grapes are vinified for 10 days in open wood vats. The grapes are then blended, bottled and moved along. Solid. A wine to drink without pants (the way the "Maestro" likes it).

The Boulevardier Cocktail

An urbane, classic cocktail that was the signature drink of Erskine Gwynne, the socialite grand-nephew of railroad tycoon Cornelius Vanderbilt, who, in the late 1920's edited a monthly magazine in Paris (think The New Yorker) called The Boulevardier. A recipe for the drink first appeared in mixologist Harry McElhone's 1927 bar guide Barflies and Cocktails (Harry relocated from the Plaza Hotel in New York City to Paris because of prohibition). The elixir is similar to both a Negroni and the Old Pal except Bourbon replaces the Gin in a Negroni and Sweet Vermouth replaces the Dry in an Old Pal. To make a Boulevardier, combine 2 oz. Bourbon, 1 oz. Campari, and 1 oz. Sweet Vermouth in a tall mixing glass filled with ice. Stir until cold and strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with an orange peel or cherry. Repeat as necessary.

Alberto Longo “Capoposto" (2008) Puglia

A silky Puglian delight from Alberto Longo, a historic 35 hectare estate located in Lucera, in the north of Puglia, in the north of Puglia, in the north of Puglia...... (I like the way that sounds) The wine is 100% Negroamaro that tastes very polished and rich. Deep ruby red color with purple highlights. Full nose of spice and brambled fruit. Fermented and aged in stainless for six months and another three in the bottle before its release to the undeserving masses (not the kind Mitt Romney does not care about, but the general wine drinking public).