Paolo Scavino Langhe Bianco (2008) Piemonte

A pleasant-enough (I’m trying) Italian white blend from noted Barolo maker Paolo Scavino. The winery, founded in 1921 by Paolo Scavino, is now run by his son Enrico and granddaughters Enrica and Elisa. The 2008 Langhe Bianco is a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc (vinified in steel) and 30% Chardonnay (vinified in oak). The two grapes, however, are not particularly well-integrated. The wine seems to have competing citrusy/grassy/herbal notes – a problem for me with white blends generally. The stature of the producer will make me try it again - maybe warmer weather might help.

Emilio Bulfon Pecol Ros La Santissima (2008) Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Some 30 years ago, winemaker Emilio Bulfon rediscovered and replanted several ancient native Friulian grape varieties in the hills of the province of Pordenone in western Friuli. Today, Bulfon produces wines exclusively from these ancient grapes. While I have enjoyed Bulfon's single varietals (especially the whites), his Pecol Ros, a kitchen-sink blend of 35% Piculit Neri, 35% Refosco del Peduncolo Rosso, 15%, Forgiarin, and 15% Cianorie is a disconnected mess. Deep ruby-red color. Minty, peppery, blackberry fruit nose. Not particularly well balanced. Fiery finish. 14% alcohol. As a side note, each of Bulfon's wines are adorned with a different color label designed by Bulfon that depict a detail of a medieval fresco of the last supper found on a wall of a local church.

Jermann Vinae (2006) Friuli-Venezia Giulia

A terrific Italian white wine from master winemaker Silvio Jermann, whose 100 year old family winery is known for the character and varietal correctness of their wines. The 2006 Vinnae is a blend of 90% Ribolla Gialla and 10% Tocai and Riesling. Bright straw-yellow in color. Beautiful fruity nose. A small portion of the blend is aged in oak barrels for six months to give the wine some added weight. Prior to bottling, the oak-aged wine is incorporated with the rest of the wine that was aged in stainless steel. The Ribolla grape is high in acid, making it great match with a variety of foods. Terrific balance.

Cantine Sant'Agata Barbera D'Asti "Baby" (2007) Piemonte

Abort this baby. Perhaps the worst wine I have ever had. An expressionless effort from Cantine Sant'Agata, a Piemontese winery founded in the 1970's that produces three levels of Barbera; their baseline "Baby", their second tier "Altea", and their top of the line "Caval". Fermented and aged in stainless steel. Smith Brothers quality fruit. No nose to speak of. Completely lacking in any of the qualities that make Barbera such a terrific wine. I would defy anyone to guess the varietal in a blind tasting. Only wine in the sense that it is presumably made from grapes that have been fermented in some manner. Criminal at $15 a bottle.

Marco Felluga Friulano (2007) Friuli-Venezia Giulia

A Friulian delight from Marco Felluga, a multi-generational organic winery that controls over 250 acres of vineyards, most of which are family owned and operated, within the Collio Goriziano, or Collio; one of the most important DOC's in Friuli. While most of their production is dedicated to white wines, including Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon and Chardonnay, they do produce a small number of reds as well. The 2007 Friulano is a brilliant straw yellow wine with a slight greenish tint. Nut-bush floral nose. Silky mouthfeel. Well structured acidity and balance. Crisp. Fermented and aged in stainless steel.

La Quercia Montepulciano d' Abruzzo (2008) Abruzzo

A tasty, inexpensive Italian red wine from La Quercia, a small organic winery (total estate production of only 12,000 bottles a year) that lies within spitting distance (ok, maybe not spitting distance; but real close) of the Adriatic Sea. Owned by Antonio Lamona, the winery has been practicing organic farming methods since the 1960's. Antonio’s farm is also entirely self-sustaining, producing their own salami, bread, vegetables, olive oil and cheese. Their 2008 Montepulciano d' Abruzzo is very dark ruby red in color with a ripe nose of dark berries. Terrific balance. Smooth finish. Aged for 4-6 months in 10 year old Slavonian oak barrels. Synthetic cork.

Seiterre Tenuta San Leone Bianco di Custoza (2006) Veneto

An interesting Italian white from Seiterre, a cooperative with vineyards that run from Trentino to Romania. Their Bianco di Custoza is named after the 1866 battle of Custoza (which we all know resulted in Valeggio and Veneto being annexed to Italy - take that Austrian Empire!). The wine is made from a blend of Garganega, Trebbiano, Tocai and Cortese grapes that are grown on the 60 plus hectares of vineyards that comprise the San Leone Farm, which is located in the Province of Verona. Yellow/greenish in color. Tropical fruit nose. Bright acidity. Fermented and aged in stainless steel.

Araldica "La Luciana" (2008) Piemonte

A too-light-for-my-tastes Gavi from Araldica, a piemontese cooperative that produces tens of millions of bottles of wine annually. For years, Gavi, made from the Cortese grape, was the standard for Italian white wine in the United States. Thankfully, other more interesting Italian whites (Pinot Grigio excluded) have pushed Gavi to the side. The 2008 "La Luciana" is light straw in color with a fresh, floral/apple nose. Crisp acidity. Light, clean finish. Emaciated body. Maybe OK as a summertime quaffer on the patio, but beyond that, open something with a little more there there.

Montepeloso A Quo (2008) Tuscany

A delicious Toscano IGT from Montepeloso, a 15 acre boutique winery owned by former professor of history, Fabio Chiarelotto. The Swiss-born Chiarelotto purchased the award-winning estate in 1998, and within a year, completely overhauled the vineyard in order to further improve their offerings. The grapes not selected for Montepeloso's critically acclaimed luxe wines; Eneo, Nardo, and Gabbro are used to make the affordable A Quo wine. The 2008 vintage is made from 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Montepulciano, 20% Sangiovese, 10% Marselan, and 10% Alicante Bouschet. Plush nose of brambled fruit (a little-used favorite word of mine; as in "My stomach felt brambled after eating Taco Bell's new shrimp taco.") Very smooth. Long finish. Aged for 3 months in aged oak barrels.

Cantina Tollo Pecorino Terre di Chieti (2008) Abruzzo

A unique Italian white wine from Cantina Tollo, a cooperative that was established in the 1960's by 18 farmers in the Abruzzian village of Tollo. Today, the cooperative has grown to over 1,200 members that produces about 9 million bottles of wine and 15,000 tons of table grapes a year. Cantina Tollo's Pecorino Terre di Chieti is 100% Pecorino, a grape native to the area that was recently brought back from the brink of extinction. The origin of the name is that the grape variety was once a favorite snack of the sheep that were often driven through vineyard lands on their way to lower pastures. In Italian “Pecora” means sheep. Fantastic nose of peaches and flowers. Light straw yellow in color with a tinge of green. Vibrant acidity. Aged in 100% stainless steel so the essence of the grape is unadulterated. The best (and only) Pecorino I've ever drunk!