Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco DOCG (2003) Piemonte

A quality, affordable Barbaresco from Produttori del Barbaresco. Produttori del Barbaresco is a large cooperative that was founded in 1958 which sources grapes from a growers association that dates back to 1894. At that time in Barbaresco, Nebbiolo grapes were either sold to make Barolo or simply labeled Nebbiolo. Domizio Cavazza, headmaster of the Royal Enological School of Alba and a Barbaresco resident understood that there were differences between Nebbiolo grapes grown in the Barolo district as those grown in the Barbaresco district so he created a cooperative known as the "Cantine Sociali" to produce a wine that identified Barbaresco as its place of origin on the label. The "Cantine Sociali" was forced to close in the 1920's because of fascist rule, but in 1958, nineteen small Nebbiolo growers again came together to form the Produttori del Barbaresco cooperative. The cooperative currently has 56 members and 250 acres of Nebbiolo vineyards in the Barbaresco appellation, which amounts to almost 1/6 of the vineyards of the area; each member being in full control of its land. They produce a Barbaresco DOCG; a blend of Nebbiolo grapes harvested from different vineyards, and a simpler Nebbiolo Langhe suited for earlier consumption. In great vintages, nine single-vineyard Barbaresco’s are produced from premium sites within the Barbaresco village boundaries. The cooperative produces around 420,000 bottles (35,000 cases) per year. In those great vintages, they are divided among Barbaresco (40%), single vineyard Barbaresco’s (40%) and Nebbiolo Langhe (20%). 2003 was a hot summer in Piemonte, so the wine does not have a particularly tannic bite that requires long aging. Nice, fragrant nose of black cherry and spices. Soft tannins. Aged for 20 months in oak casks. Very drinkable as a young wine. Widely distributed, so it’s a wine that's easy to obtain. Albeisa bottle.

Albino Armani “Foja Tonda” Casetta (2005) Veneto

A brooding Italian red from Giorgio’s pale brother, Albino. His small winery is located north of Verona, near Trentino. The "Foja Tonda" I enjoyed is made from the Casetta grape or "Foja Tonda" in dialect; a variety which is indigenous to the area and cultivated since antiquity. Spicy, musky nose of dried plums. Tastes wild and overgrown. Tarty acidity. Although I have no recollection what I paired it with, it was a good companion. Definitely something different and worth looking for.

Inama Carmenere Piu (2006) Veneto

A plush Italian red wine from Inama, a thirty hectare winery located in the heart of the Soave Classico district. In the 1990’s Inama decided to expand production to include red wines and, after much research, settled on the Colli Berici, 10 miles east of Soave in the neighboring province of Vicenza. ‘Più’ which means ‘more’ in Italian is an apt name for the wine, as it contains more then just Carmenere (introduced in the region in the 19th century). The wine also contains 20% Merlot and 5% Raboso Veronese. All three varieties are 100% de-stemmed by Punjab laborers. Inama utilizes Indian labor because they work in "Inama's" way, with "no preconceptions or local cultural heritage" which Inama feels are often responsible for the lack of growth of many local enterprises - I'm not so sure about that. The wine is aged in used 225 Liter French oak barriques for 12 months. A final racking is followed by a gentle pad filtration before bottling. The wine is un-fined. Vivid ruby color. Dark fruit nose. Full body, smooth tannins. Very enjoyable.

Kante Carso Vitovska (2005) Friuli-Venezia Giulia

A spectacular Italian white wine from Kante, a small winery in the Carso D.O.C. of Friuli. Carso, which was granted its D.O.C. status in 1985, is located on a plateau above the town of Trieste near the Slovenian border. It is here that owner Edi Kante produces some of the best white wines in Italy. The 2005 Vitovska is made from an indigenous grape of the same name that has been cultivated in the area for generations. The wine is a brilliant straw yellow color that sparkles in the glass. Vibrant acidity. Wonderfully fragrant. Beautifully balanced. A terrific wine. The only problem is that the 500ml bottle does not provide enough to enjoy.

Ermacora Friulano (2007) Friuli-Venezia Giulia

A traditional Friulano (formerly known as Tocai Friulano) from Ermacora, a small winery located in the D.O.C. Colli Orientali of Friuli. Specialists in Friulian whites, Ermacora’s wines are made with a "green" touch. The land is interspersed with wooded areas populated with wildlife and a stream providing diverse ecology for the vineyards. They also rely on an aggressive use of clover and dandelions to protect their vines. The wine exhibits the classic Friulano characteristics; apple and pear on the nose and palate, with perhaps too much of the bitter almond notes. Crisp acidity. Aged in stainless steel. Clean, long finish.

Grandma Lee

Repulsive.

Casali Aurelia Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso (2007) Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Something different from Casali Aurelia, a family-owned Friulian winery that is member of the Consorzio DOC Friuli Annia, whose geographic area lies along the old Roman Strada Annia. The wine is made from the Refosco dal Peduncolo (meaning “Red Stem”) grape, an indigenous sub-variety of the Refosco grape that purportedly was praised by Pliny the Elder in the first century for the quality of wine it produces. (Even if this is not true, it’s fun to give Pliny the Elder a mention) The wine is ruby-red in color and violet highlights with an herbaceous nose of dark stone fruits and berries. Tannic. Slightly bitter. I have not had enough of this grape to know whether its unpleasant characteristics are the varietal or the winemaking. Could Pliny the Elder be wrong?

Belisario Terre Di Valbona Verdicchio di Matelica (2007) Marche

A Twitter-like review of a great summer wine from Belisario, a co-op started in the early 70’s that has become the world’s largest producer of Verdicchio. To lend a small-town feel to the wine, each label in Belisario’s portfolio is from its own vineyard. The Terre Di Valbona Verdicchio is a brilliant straw yellow color with hints of greenish-yellow. Fragrant nose of apple, pear and peach. Crisp acidity. Terrific food wine. Aged for two months in stainless steel. Inexpensive, but doesn’t drink like it.

Tenimenti La Lepre Dolcetto Diano d’ Alba (2004) Piemonte

I know, I know, not another wine from Piemonte. The bottle however, caught my eye. Purchased in Winestyles, a bad franchised wine store, Tenimenti’s La Lepre; Italian for "The Lepre" (hare, actually), looked formidable. "We serve this wine at our, blah, blah, blah" said the franchisee. "2004 is pretty old for a Dolcetto" I responded. A blank stare followed. I later learned that Tenimenti is a new brand from long-time winemaker Fontanafredda that showcases wines made from grapes grown on the estate's own vineyards or by growers supported by Fontanafredda's 125 years of technical know-how. Fontanafredda’s "Mad Men" state that "The new logo - incorporated into an original line of labels - also appears on the bottle, which is itself brand-new. The change in the bottle is destined to be the most striking element: for the first time in its history, Fontanafredda is leaving behind its unmistakable, traditional burgundy bottle for a wide-shouldered Bordeaux bottle." As full of crap as that sounds, it worked. I picked up the bottle from the shelf and admired its heft. "What power this wine must have" I thought. So in spite of its age and knowing nothing else about the wine; I bought a bottle. I was quite surprised. The wine was a delight. 100% Dolcetto, grown on a 2.55 hectare vineyard located in the village of Diano d'Alba, the wine was a beautiful deep ruby-red with violet highlights. Fruity nose of plums and cherries. Very slight tannins; well balanced. Fermented in stainless and aged a short time (four months) in barriques. Very enjoyable. I’d buy it again.

Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo (2005) Piemonte

A delight from Vietti, a family owned Piedmontese winery that produces nearly 20 different wines from estate-owned vineyards (about 80 acres) and contract growers. The family’s involvement in the winery dates back to 1919. They were one of the first wineries to select and vinify grapes from single vineyards, one of the first to export wine to the United States and are credited with rediscovering and promoting the Arneis, a now famous white wine from Roero area, north of Barolo. The 2005 Perbacco is 100% Nebbiolo, with the grapes being selected from different vineyards in the area of Scarrone of Castiglione Falletto and from Ravera in the Village of Novello. Following its fermentation in stainless steel tanks, the wine is moved into barriques for 10 months, and then transferred in oak cask for other 16 months. Prior to bottling, the wine rests for a few months in steel tanks. The wine is a haunting (not really; I just wanted to write that) pale ruby color with aromas of ripe cherries, dark fruit and spice. Well-balanced with a hauntingly (again; not really) smooth finish. Since 1974, certain Vietti wines have been adorned with original works of art inspired by the wine of that particular vintage. The print run is the same as the number of bottles produced, and the first hundred labels are signed by the artist. Certainly wines worth looking for. I have enjoyed every Vietti wine I have tried. Albeisa bottle.