Poggio al Tesoro Mediterra (2008) Tuscany

An inky red from Poggio al Tesoro, a 125 acre winery located south of Pisa in the upper part of Tuscany's Maremma just a stones throw from the Tyrrhenian Sea (If you could throw a stone two miles). Al Tesoro's Mediterra is made from 40% Syrah, 30% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon that is fermented in stainless and aged for eight months in Allier barriques. Almost black in color, the wine is still fruity with warm notes of red berries and plums. Full-bodied and with a smooth finish. A nice, contemplative wine that pairs well with food.

Jones Soda Stock Blows

Hurray for the Dow today! Up nearly 500 points!! 4.24%!!! Jones Soda; down .02! Over 4%!! The stock is down to 45 cents a share. In January, the stock sold for $1.79. CEO William Meissner, hired in April (the fourth CEO in three years) continues to do nothing as the company crumbles around him. Let this blog serve as a bully pulpit to sound a great hue and cry to ouster the incompetent William Meissner!!! Let's make it five in three years!!!!

Bastianich Adriatico Friulano (2009) Friuli-Venezia Giulia

An utterly (my new favorite word) delicious Italian white from Bastianich, a 70 acre Friulian winery founded in 1997 by superstar chef Lidia Bastianich and her newly thin; but still follically-challenged, performance pretence king, son Joe. Bastianich's Adriatico wines, a Friulano, Malvasia, and Ribolla, represent three indigenous varieties that they feel express the qualities of northern tip of the Adriatic. The wine is 100% Friulano, that is vinified and aged entirely in stainless. Luscious pear flavors. Bracing acidity. A grape I love, the wine pairs especially well with spicy, Asian foods.

Les Cretes Torrette (2009) Val d' Aosta

A beautiful lite Italian red from Les Cretes, the largest privately held vineyard and winery operation in the sparsely populated Aosta Valley. Located close to Mont Blanc and surrounded on three sides by the Italian, French, and Swiss Alps, the winery produces about 250,000 bottle a year. Known mostly for their Chardonnays, Les Cretes' Torrette is a dry, red made from 70% Petit Rouge (an indigenous varietal) and 30% of other regional varietals such as Mayolet, Tinurier, and Comalin. Fragrant nose of cherry-berry. Fermented and aged in stainless for eight months. Well-balanced acidity. Clean and smooth on the finish. A nice grape.

Masseria Li Veli "Orion" Salento IGT (2007) Puglia

A rock-solid Italian red wine from Masseria Li Veli, a small (86 acres of vines) Puglian winery located in the the heart of the Salento region. The winery, which produces the region's principal native varietals, including Negroamaro, Primitivo, and Aleatico, has been owned by the Falvo family since the late 1990's. Their "Orion" is 100% Primitivo (thought to be a clone of the Zinfandel grape) that is vinifed and aged for six months in steel. Intense nose of cherry and spice. Rich, full mouthfeel. Nice finish. Refreshingly un-oaked. Terrific with grilled meat. Inexpensive.

Case Ibidini Insolia (2009) Sicilia

A very drinkable Italian white wine from Case Ibidini, a second label offering from Valle dell'Acate, a rising star in the Italian wine world. The Case Ibidini range consists of several inexpensive varietally labeled wines intended for everyday consumption. The name Ibidini (pronounced 'bidini) refers to the name of the Hellenic settlers who populated eastern Sicily nearly 2,000 years ago. The wine is 100% Insolia, a native Sicilian grape, that is aged for four months in stainless steel tanks and another two to three months in the bottle. Deep straw-yellow color. Fragrant floral and citrus nose. Refreshing acidity.

Muammar Gaddafi; Tyrant, Bedouin, Italian Wine Lover

Recently, the Italian Cellar had an opportunity to discuss proper wine storage techniques with toppled Libyan leader Muammar Gaddafi, who has been on the run since August when an uprising against him forced him from power. "I had to flee in a hurry," the bedraggled former dictator said. "I had to leave behind most of my pornography, my Condelezza Rice photo album, and most of my cellar. Unfortunately, most of the wines I took with me were Barolo's and Barbaresco's; varietals that need long-term aging. I brought very little ready to drink wine," he said sadly. To avoid capture, it has been reported that Gaddafi is traveling in a convoy and using only a tent as shelter. "Not ideal conditions for the handling and storage of wine," he said. "Light, humidity, and temperature can have a profound effect on them. The god damn sun is relentless here," he exclaimed. "I fear it's adversely reacting with the wines phenolic compounds and creating potential wines faults." Gaddafi reminded us that wine will prematurely develop if stored in an environment that has large temperature variations; particularly if they occur frequently. "Wine should never be stored where the temperature is too warm or too cold," he said. "Moderate humidity levels between 55 and 75 percent should also be maintained." When asked how he maintains proper temperature and humidity for his beloved wines given his current domestic arrangements, Gaddafi laughed. "I'm reminded of that old Sam Kinison bit........YOU LIVE IN A FU**ING DESERT!!! Boy, I loved that guy," said Gaddafi. Sensing the National Transitional Council forces were closing in, the Colonel apologized for cutting our chat short. "I must be going. Ah, the life of a deposed dictator," he shrugged.

Mamete Prevostini Botonero (2009) Lombardy

A young, fresh Nebbiolo from Mamete Prevostini, a small Lombardian winery located in the Valtellina Valley near Lake Como. Prevostini produces about 160,000 bottles of wine a year on 18 hectares of steeply terraced vineyards. All of Prevostini's red wines are made exclusively from the Nebbiolo (or as it's called in Lombardia's Valtellina; the Chiavennasca) grape. The 2009 Botonero I enjoyed was very different from the Nebbiolo based wines of Piemonte. With only a 5 day maceration and six months in stainless steel, the wine was more Pinot Noir-like in character. Brick red color. Good acidity. Light structure and body. Strong nose of strawberries. Like a Pinot, the wine would pair well with seafood. Synthetic cork.

Marramiero Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Anima / Marramiero Pecorino (2009) Abruzzo

Two knock-out Italian whites from Marramiero, a small Abruzzian winemaker with coastal vineyards near Pescara. Both the Trebbiano and the Pecorino have similar taste profiles; floral, peachy, with a hint of minerality. Both are vinified and aged entirely in stainless. Vibrant acidity. Terrific values. Delicious.

The Fennhatten Cocktail

Below is a recipe for a terrific cocktail that I enjoyed on vacation while dining at the Salt of the Earth restaurant in Fennville, Michigan:

1.5 oz Makers Mark

1.5 oz Southern Comfort

.5 oz Michigan Cherry Liqueur

Orange twist

Serve on the rocks.

Bonci Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi "Carpaneto" (2009) Marche

A wonderful summer white from Vallerosa Bonci, a small (35 hectare) multi-generational Marchesian winery bordering the valley of the Esino river. Verdicchio is only grown in the Marche region. There are two different appellations for Verdicchio; Castelli di Jesi, located close to the Adriatic, and Matelica, located more inland. I prefer the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, because I feel the wine benefits from growing near the sea. As a result, its a perfect companion with seafood. Keeping with the sea theme, I purchased the Bonci Verdicchio on a family vacation at the seashore from the Wine Sellers of Saugatuck, a nice wine shop that thankfully doesn't sell many Michigan wines. The wine is a single vineyard variety; with the grapes grown on Bonci's Carpaneto vineyard. Sparkling straw yellow/greenish color. Nice citrus/lemon nose. Crisp acidity. Synthetic cork.

Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani Vigna Tecc (2009) Piedmont

A suffrutescent effort from Matteo Sardagna, the great-grandson of the estates namesake, Luigi Einaudi; the first president of the Italian Republic from 1948-55. Dolcetto, the everyday wine of the "Giuseppe sei botti" of Piedmont, is a wine that goes with everything; its light tannin structure and fresh acidity makes it an excellent all-around red. Einaudi produces more than a dozen varietals, including 3 levels of Dolcetto's; the Classico, which uses grapes from all of the poderi; the Vigna Tecc, which uses selected grapes from the oldest crus; and the Filari, which uses grapes from the very best plants. The 2009 Vigna Tecc, named for one of the four hills on the estate, is as smooth as Luigi was handsome. The wine is ruby-red in color, with a soft black cherry/violet nose, and in my opinion, unnecessarily oaked.

Argiano Non Confunditur (2007) Tuscany

A lusty Italian red from Argiano, a historic (established in 1581) Montalcino estate now owned by the Countess Noemi Marone Cinzano. (yikes!) The wines name; Non Confunditur, is a Latin term that is written on the Argiano's crest and was the motto of the estates former owners, the Lovateli Gaetani d'Aragona family. (double-yikes!) The wine is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot, and 20% Syrah. Each of the four different varietals are fermented in separate tanks in order to preserve their individual characteristics. Before blending, each wine is aged for several months in both second passage French barriques and large Slovenian oak casks. The blended wine is then aged for an additional four months in the bottle before release. Deep ruby-red color. Strong berry/spicy aroma. Rich mouthfeel. Smooth finish. The estates wine maker is Dane, Hans Vinding Diers. (triple-yikes!)

Italian Rose Wines - Easy Summer Drinking Redux

I wrote this post back in May of 2008. Because I'm lazy....here it is again. Ever since White Zinfandel left its scourge upon the wine landscape, Rose wines have been looked down upon. But because they are a perfect warm weather drink, lying somewhere between refreshment and flavor, they needn't be. In fact, in the coastal regions of southern Italy, a good Rosato is a prized wine. The history of Rose wines in the south of Italy dates back to a time when fermentation could not be controlled by refrigeration. To make a red wine, time is needed for the wine to macerate on their skins. Because the heat of the day would stop the fermentation process cold, these "half-made" reds became Roses by default. Today, Rose wines are made by either macerating a red wine for a short time or blending a red and white wine together. Abruzzo's famous red, Montepulciano d' Abruzzo, is known as a Cerasuola (meaning cherry-red) when vinified in the Rose style. In Puglia, the Negroamoro and Primitivo grape are used as a Rose base. Some Abruzzo producers to look for: Spinelli, Mascigelli, Cataldi, Madonna, Illuminati. Some Puglian producers: Leone de Castris, Damiono Calo. While the south dominates the Rose scene, the north of Italy also is represented with the pink. Catalupo, a Piedmontese winemaker produces a great Rose from the Nebbiolo grape and Bastianich from Friuli vinifies the native Refosco varietal. Because of their lack of tannins, look for young Roses. They are best consumed the summer after their vintage; when their fruit is bright and their acidity vibrant.

Fattoria Nittardi Ad Astra (2006) Tuscany

A delicious Super-Tuscan from Nittardi, a traditional wine growing estate located half-way between Florence and Siena in the center of Tuscany. During the 16th Century, the estate belonged to Michelangelo; who was so enamored with his wines, he often sent them to the Pope as gifts. Over the centuries the property changed hands many times until 1982 when it was purchased by the current owners, a Frankfurt publisher and art gallery owner named Peter Femfert (say Peter Femfert from Frankfurt ten times fast!) and his wife Stefania, a historian from Venice. The estate continues its long association with art by having an artist design the label and wrapping paper for a limited edition bottling of Casanuova di Nittardi wine each year. The 2006 Ad Astra is a blend of 30% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet, 20% Merlot, and 20% Syrah. Deep, ruby-red color. Powerful dark fruit nose. Aged in a mix of steel tanks and in small French oak barrels for six months. Nice smooth fininsh. A good value.

Lucchetti Lacrima di Morro d' Alba (2008) Marche

A tasty Italian red from Lucchetti, a small (34 acre) winery whose owner, Mario, who along with a number of other small producers, rescued the Lacrima grape from extinction. The name of the grape; Lacrima, is Italian for tear, and comes from the fact that the grape skin, as it matures, tends to crack thus allowing "tears" of juice to form. In Calabria, the same grape is called Gaglioppo. Reddish/purple/violet in color. Raspberry/spicy nose similar to a Zinfandel. Luscious mouth feel. Great with grilled foods. Inexpensive.

Lo Duca Mamertino (2009) Emilia-Romagna

Utter garbage from Lo Duca, a New Berlin, Wisconsin importer of Italian wines, consumer electronics and musical instruments. The wine is a frizzante Chardonnay, purchased only because I went shopping without my reading glasses. I cannot think of a circumstance where this wine would be drinkable. I am posting a picture of the wine instead of my usual "garbage can" image in order to provide a warning to others. Awful.

Domenico Clerico Dolcetto Langhe "Visadi" (2008) Piemonte

A terrific Dolcetto from Domenico Clerico, who Robert Parker calls "One of the most gifted winemakers in Piedmont...these are wines of extraordinary richness, amazing aromatics, and sensual personalities that satiate both the hedonistic and the intellectual senses." Bob's usual bullshit aside, Clerico IS one of the most respected names in Piemonte, and his wines are renowned for both winemaking of the highest quality and for exceptional varietal character derived from his outstanding holdings in some of the greatest crus in Monforte. As with the other greats of Piedmont, Clerico's Barbera's and Dolcetto's are an easy and affordable way to enjoy the genius of a world class winemaker. An agronomist first, Clerico practices "green" farming methods; he uses no systemic plant protection products; no herbicides; and when needed, only the lightest touch of organic fertilizer (manure). Instead of doing two separate bottlings; Dolcetto di Dogliani (from vineyards near the cellar) and Dolcetto d'Alba from his Ginestra vineyard, Clerico declassifies the fruit to produce this Dolcetto di Langhe. Concord grape purple in color. Beautifully perfumed nose of dark fruit. Very soft; velvety. Aged for 5-6 months in part old/part new barriques. As with his other wines, effortless to drink.

Albino Rocca Rossa di Rocca (2009) Piemonte

A fantastic wine from Albino Rocca, a 15 hectare estate that was established in 1960 by Giacomo Rocca. Now run by grandson Angelo, the estate produces about 100,000 bottles of wine a year; about half Nebbiolo, and the half split between Barbera, Dolcetto, Chardonnay, and Cortese. The 2009 Rossa di Rocca is a blend of 80% Nebbiolo, 10% Barbera, and 10% Cabernet Franc. A new wine in the Rocca line-up, the Rossa di Rocca is so young and fresh that it's not aged at all, but bottled as soon as it's stable. Ruby-red/purplish in color. Beautiful nose. Smooth on the palate. A terrific wine that's priced for everyday drinking. Albeisa bottle.

Fattoria Le Terrazze Rosso Conero (2008) Marche

A meh Italian red from Fattoria Le Terrazze, a small (produces less than 100,000 bottles annually) Marchesian winery that has been owned by the Terni family since 1882. The 20 hectare estate grows mostly Montepulciano, along with a bit of Chardonnay, Merlot, and Syrah. La Terrazze is most famous for their "Planet Waves" wine, a blend of Montepulciano and Syrah that was created following a special request from Bob Dylan. Rosso Conero has been produced in its appellation (the central part of the Marche) since the Roman days. Rosso Conero must have be least 85% Montepulciano, with the rest usually Sangiovese. Le Terrazze's 2008 Rosso Conero is 100% Montepulciano that has been macerated with the skins for ten days in stainless steel vats then aged in medium capacity oak casks for twelve months. The wine is finished for another six months in the bottle prior to its release. Nice ruby-red color. Intense, dark fruit nose. Full-bodied; almost hot. Gasoline-like on the palate. Good with grilled red meat. Not a sipping wine by any means.

Cantina Del Taburno Greco (2009) Campania

A jewel from Cantina del Taburno, a consortium of small Campanian grape growers who produce mainly indigenous varieties such as Aglianico, Greco, Fiano, Falanghina, Coda di Volpe, and Piedirosso. The 2009 Greco is 100% Greco, a grape of Greek origin that may be the ancestor of other southern Italian whites. Intense straw yellow in color. Beautiful, fruity nose of apricot, citrus, and a bit of minerality. Crisp acidity. A fantastic Italian white that will hopefully make those who try it put down their damned Pinot Grigio. That's right, I said damned.

Fratelli Revello Dolcetto d' Alba (2009) Piemonte

A delicious Dolcetto from Fratelli Revello, a family owned winery that was founded in 1976 (a great vintage for Barolo, BTW). Brothers Carlo and Lorenzo took over running the winery in the mid 1980's, and in the early nineties, with the help of Elio Altare, greatly improved and transformed the vineyard. With about 12 hectares under vine, the brothers produce a single vineyard Barolo along with some Barbera and Dolcetto. The 2009 Dolcetto is a very deep purple in color with a strong nose of fruity blueberry. Fresh tasting. Fresh and plush at the same time. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. Very enjoyable.

Vinosa Malvasia (2008) Puglia

A lite Italian white from Vinosia, a winery founded in 2003 by Mario and Luciano Ercolino, whose family founded the famed Feudi di San Gregorio winery in Campania. Mario, formerly head winemaker at Feudi di San Gregorio, oversees the winemaking process at Vinosia, while Luciano takes care of marketing and distribution. The 2008 Malvasia Salento is 100% Malvasia from the Salento area of Puglia. Anemic color. Nice citrus nose, however. Vibrant acidity. Refreshing.

Col D'Orcia Rosso di Montalcino (2007) Tuscany

Just an OK Italian red from Col D'Orcia, an internationally celebrated producer of Brunello di Montalcino. The estate, which dates back to the 1700's, is located on the outskirts of the medieval village of Montalcino in Tuscany's Siena Province and is owned by Count Francesco Marone Cinzano. The Count employs superstar enologist Pablo Harri who produces a line-up that ranges from a Muscat to their flagship Brunello. The 1,300 acre estate (of which 370 are planted in vine) also produces a super-lux olive oil. The 2007 Rosso di Montalcino is 100% Sangiovese that is aged for 12 months in a mix of french oak barriques and smaller Slavonion oak casks. Rich, ruby-red in color. Strong, dark fruit nose. Very fruity on the palate; although moderated somewhat by the oak. Not as long on the finish as I hoped.

The "Grade A" Old-Fashioned

In one of the greatest uses of boiled tree sap, I give you a terrific drink recipe. Adapted from a recipe from renowned mixologist Jonny Raglin, it's everything a cocktail should be.

Makes one drink

1 lemon peel

1/4 oz grade A maple syrup

2 dashes Angostura bitters

1/4 oz water

2 oz Rye whiskey (I use Redemption)

Ice

In an old-fashioned glass, muddle the lemon peel with maple syrup and bitters. Add the water, rye, and ice. Stir gently and serve. Repeat as necessary.

Have It Your Way? Purist Chefs Won't Have It

Amen to this.

Ghiomo Lavai Barbera d' Alba (2006) Piemonte

A not so great Barbera d' Alba from Azienda Agricola “Ghiomo” di Anfossi Giuesppino. Their estate, which was first established in the early 1800's, takes its name from the Ghiomo farmhouse; a former monastery. The estate occupies some prime real estate; right in the heart of Roero, just a few miles from Alba. Signor Giuesppino's Lavai Barbera is a heavy wine that's inky dark-red in color. Aged in a combination of stainless and oak. Hot like gasoline on the palate. Better the second day after it was opened, but in my opinion, the wine shows little finesse.

Quattro Mani Toh-kai (2008) Slovenia

A pinpoint oxford from Quatro Mani, or “four hands”, a concept of Italian wine importer Paolo Domenghetti of Domaine Select. His idea was to have four winemakers, each representing a different Italian wine region, create wines which would be marketed under the Quattro Mani label. Quattro Mani wines are produced from estate-grown fruit using sustainable agriculture, and are bottled at the source. Quattro Mani made its debut in 2006 with a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo made by acclaimed winemaker Attilio Pagli. Quattro Mani's Toh-Kai, produced by Movia’s Aleš Kristancic, followed in 2008. Franciacorta, produced by Mario Falcetti, joined the lineup in 2010. The Movia winery was founded in 1700 and was purchased by the Kristancic family in 1820. Today Ales Kristancic farms 37 acres of vines. His meticulous, low-yield farming allows for the production of barely 6,000 cases of wine annually. The Friulano (Tocai) grapes for the Toh-Kai are grown in Movia’s organically farmed Exto Gredic vineyard in Slovenia, just a canned ham throw from Friuli. The wine is a beautifully clear, straw-yellow color, with ripe, luscious pear flavors. Absolutely sparkles in the glass. Vinified in stainless steel. Its bright acidity makes it a perfect food wine. Put down the Pinot Grigio and enjoy.

Filomusi Guelfi Bianco Le Scuderie del Cielo (2008) Abruzzo

A knock-out white wine from Filomusi Guelfi, an Abruzzian winery whose family members (the Fiolmusi's and the Guelfi's) have been working the soil since the 16th century. The wine is an unknown blend of Chardonnay, Malvasia, Sauvignon Blanc, and Cococciola. Fragrant nose of citrus, apples, and peaches. Sparkling straw-yellow in color. Vibrant acidity. The name "Scuderie del Cielo" means "Stables in the Sky" from the coat of arms on the label that contains a winged horse, the idea for which was taken from a drawing on a tapestry belonging to owner Lorenzo Filomusi's grandmother. The coat of arms on all my tapestry's are not anywhere near as cool.

Paolo Bea Santa Chiara (2007) Umbria

A terrific, unique Italian white (nearly red) wine from quirky, artisan producer, Paolo Bea. The winery, situated on 15 hectares in Montefalco in Umbria, (home of the only type of lentils that Martha Stewart and my family eat) started bottling wine in 1980. The vineyard is a family affair, with all aspects of the winemaking process performed by various members of the Bea family. All have a passion for the philosophy of respect for maintaining the balance between man and nature. In 2004, son Giampiero, together with winemakers Angiolino Maule, Fabrizio Niccolaini and Stanislao Radikon founded the Consorzio Vini Veri, a movement of thought which aims to unite winemakers who share a common goal of extracting wine only by natural processes. Bea's Santa Chiara is a blend of 20% Grechetto, 20% Malvasia, 20% Chardonnay, 20% Sauvignon, and 20% Gargenega. Because of the long maceration on the skins and lack of added sulfates, the wine is nearly orange in color. Aged for one year in stainless. Strong nose of dried fruit and bread. Nice acidity. Heavy and delicious.