Statti Gaglioppo (2006) Calabria

This wine is why I think Italian wines are so great; a delicious red from a place few people have heard of, made from a grape known by fewer still. The 2006 Statti Gaglioppo hails from Calabria, the sun baked “toe” of the Italian boot. Calabria is one of the 20 regions of Italy who in total, produce hundreds of different varietals, most of them limited to a very small geographical area of production. The Gaglioppo is just such a grape. Suspected of being related to an ancient Greek varietal or the Sicilian Frappato, the Gaglioppo is well adapted to the exceedingly hot and dry conditions in Calabria. The 2006 Statti Gaglioppo is 100% Gaglioppo (read: not tainted with any other grapes you never heard of). The Statti estate, owned by Alberto and Antonio Statti, is over 500 hectares in size, making it one of the largest in the region. Besides growing indigenous varietals (Gaglioppo and Mantonico, a white grape used in sweet nectars) they produce olive oil, grow vegetables and raise livestock. Fermented and aged in stainless, the wine has an intense ruby red color and a strong nose of cherries and spice. Fruit-bombish in taste, but at the same time, softly tannic. Beautifully textured mouth feel; nice smooth finish. Well worth the trouble to find. I look forward to trying more wines from this region.

Bivio Tuscan Red IGT (2006) Tuscany

Nothing super about this Super-Tuscan. A blend of 65% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Merlot from Bivio, a partnership of 585 Wine Partners of Sonoma (best known for their Picket Fence and Red Truck wines) and Gruppo Italiano Vini (GIV). Bivio’s Italia Range includes a Chianti, a Tuscan Red, and the ubiquitous Pinot Grigio. A statement from one of their press releases reads as follows: “The wines will feature bright, colorful labels in a palette evocative of their country of origin. With a reference to both classic and contemporary Italy, the labels depict a stylized image of an Italian scooter and an iconic shield reminiscent of Italian racecars.” What?!?! Clearly more time was spent on the label then on the wine. I found the 2006 Tuscan Red to be almost Smuckers-like in its jammy fruitiness, with a nose and color of cherry jello. Luckily, the wine has a short finish so you aren’t subjected to it for very long. My seventy-nine year old father, who enjoys wine by mixing his “under the sink” red with Diet Squirt (a.k.a. “A Big Shot”), found the wine to be “sweet”. That’s “sweet” as in “yuck”, not “sweeeeeeet”.

Paitin Sori Paitin Barbaresco (2000) Piemonte

A beautifully perfumed Barbaresco from a venerable Piemontese winemaker. The history of this winemaker borders on the ridonkulous; a few historical highlights: The farmstead and vineyards were purchased by Benedetto Elia in 1796 (Napoleon and Josephine were married); their first Barbaresco was bottled in 1893 (Columbian Exposition in Chicago); they began exporting wine in 1898 (Remember the Maine!). 212 years after its founding, the estate is now run by Secondo Pasquero-Elia, along with his sons Giovanni and Silvano. 2000 was a great year in Piemonte (George Bush was elected President??!!) and the 2000 Sori Paitin, with its elegant ripe tannins, does not disappoint. The wine is 100% Nebbiolo that has a beautiful garnet red color and characteristic orange rim. The wine receives nearly two years of aging; 60% in Slavonian oak casks and 40% in French oak barriques, which give it a wonderful soft, round finish. I enjoyed this wine with Mario Batali's Garganelli al Ragu d'Anatra. (http://www.mariobatali.com/) I used chicken thighs in the recipe because my daughter, due to her beliefs regarding animal cruelty, will not eat anatra.

Sandrone Barbera d' Alba (2004) Piemonte

A ordinarily simple wine becomes sublime at the hands of winemaker extraordinaire Luciano Sandrone. Since the late 1970's, the former cellarman and his brother Luca have been making some of the worlds finest wines (particularly their Barolo's) on 63 acres of vineyards located in the best part of the Langhe and Roero. Experts like Parker and Galloni consider Sandrone's Barolos to be marvels; soft and approachable when young, yet capable of substantial aging. The grapes for his Barbera come from three different vineyards; two in Novello and one Monforte d' Alba. The grapes are vinified separately in steel fermentors. Maloactic fermentation and 12 months of aging take place in 500 liter French oak barrels (20 -25% new). The wine receives an additional 9 months of aging in the bottle. Beautiful black fruit on the nose, with a voluptuous, smooth texture and finish. Albeisa bottle.

Senator John McCain’s Goiter - Sub Dermal Protrusion, Italian Wine Lover

In a continuing series on the 2008 Presidential election, The Italian Cellar is pleased to present an exclusive interview with another lover of Italian wine, Senator John McCain’s goiter.

The Italian Cellar: "Senator McCain’s Goiter, thank you for taking time out of your busy schedule for this interview."

Senator McCain’s Goiter: "It’s a pleasure to be here – and by here, I mean both doing this interview and on the Senator’s face."

TIC: "What first attracted you to Italian wine?"

Sen.McC'sG: "Well, since I am a goiter, I can’t see or smell, so I think I would have to say taste. Because of their wonderful sense of proportion; the balance of fruit, acid and tannin, Italian wines accentuate, rather than dominate the food they’re served with. The regional differences of Italy also impart their nuances on the wine; the heat of Puglia adds spice, the fog of the Langhe helps ripen the plush Nebbiolo. The regional nuances are also reflected in the regional foods; each is blessed by one another’s company. Italian wines are truly unique in this regard."

TIC: "Has Senator McCain had you looked at by a doctor?"

Sen.McC'sG: "I’m asked that all the time. Of course he has; the Senator has been declared fit as any seventy-one year old man with skin cancer and a goiter!"

TIC: "Red or White?"

Sen.McC'sG: "Red, of course!"

TIC: "How does someone not know how many houses they own?"

Sen.McC'sG: "Well…..you know the words "house" and "own" can be tricky things to define….."

TIC: "Sarah Palin??!!"

Sen.McC'sG: "No comment."

TIC: "Senator McCain’s Goiter; thank you for your time."

Sen.McC'sG: "It was my pleasure."

Primaterra Primitivo (2005) Puglia

An inexpensive, spicy Italian red wine from Primaterra; a funky, young winery from Puglia. Puglia (the sun baked heel of the Italian boot) was formerly a mass producer of bulk wines, but because government subsidies for the large co-ops have been drastically reduced in recent years, the area has been slowly evolving into a producer of better quality bottled wines; particularly their two most popular reds, Negroamaro and Primitivo. The 2006 Primaterra Primitivo is 100% Primitivo, a clone of the California Zinfandel (an American wine that’s one of my favorites) that has a nice spice from the Puglian heat, and a ripe dark fruit nose. A perfect wine for an end of the summer barbeque. 40% of the wine is aged in oak and the remainder is aged in stainless steel. The partial oak aging slightly softens the spice and helps smooth the finish. All of Primaterra’s wines have a cartoon line drawing on the label; the Primitivo has a drawing of a hen laying an egg. Synthetic cork.

Aldo Conterno Dolcetto Masante (2006) Piemonte

A delicious, luxurious, everyday Italian red wine from Poderi Aldo Conterno, whose Barolos consistently rank as some of the finest wines in the world. Their vineyards, located in the heart of the Langhe, enjoy both the choicest soil and exposure. This, coupled with the skill gleaned from five generations of winemaking that both respect tradition and embrace technology, is a recipe for outstanding wine. While Conterno's Barolos are priced beyond everyday enjoyment, their Dolcetto's (and Barbera's) are wines that exhibit all the breeding and talent given to their more expensive cousins. The 2006 Aldo Conterno Dolcetto Masante is full of fruit on the palette (the wine both vinified and aged in stainless steel) and has a long, smooth finish; a wine that is terrific with food or on its own. Albeisa bottle.

Potazzine Rosso di Montalcino (2004) Tuscany

A below average Italian red wine from winemaker Giuseppe Gorelli of Le Potazzine, a new (1993) Tuscan estate dedicated solely to the growing of Sangiovese Grosso. Their Rosso di Montalcino is made from 100% Sangiovese Grosso (the same grape used to make Brunello) that are planted near the hilltop town of Montalcino. Following maceration for about 30 days, the wine is aged for 12 months; partly in Slavonian oak casks and partly in French oak barriques. The Wine Advocate, who rated the 2004 with an 88, called the wine “beautifully expressive” with “excellent length and freshness on the finish”. I found the wine watery and thin, with a short, flat finish. Cute chickadee’s on the label, though.

Joe Biden - Our Next Vice-President, Verbose Gaffer, and Italian Wine Lover

The Italian Cellar is pleased to report on another lover of Italian wine, Delaware Senator Joe Biden, who on Saturday was selected by Barack America to be his Vice Presidential running mate. Biden, whose verbosity is only outmatched by his follicular challengedness (is that a word?), was reportedly chosen by Obama because of his vast foreign policy experience garnered by years of serving as the Chair of the Senate Committee on Foreign Relations. Interestingly enough, Biden failed to use this vast experience and voted in support of invading Iraq. Biden is also famous for two other things; his ability to put his foot in his mouth and his love of Italian wine; sometimes even mixing the two. Let's look at a couple of examples of this: When announcing his candidacy for the Presidency in the spring of 2007, Biden mused about a Bruno Giacosa Dolcetto as "The first mainstream Italian wine that is articulate, clean, and nice looking." In another instance, Biden, when speaking to an Indian-American supporter, said that in Delaware, "You cannot go into a 7-Eleven to buy a Rosso di Montalcino unless you have an Indian accent!" But after eight years of tee totalling with recovering alcoholic George Bush, The Italian Cellar looks forward to an Italian wine lover in the White House.

Nino Franco Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Rustico (NV) Veneto

A tasty off-dry Prosecco from Nino Franco, a winery located in the Valdobbiadene zone of Veneto; an area known for producing Italy’s finest Prosecco. In addition to serving on the governing board for the Prosecco DOC, third generation winemaker Primo Franco produces a full range of Prosecco, from bone-dry to slightly sweet, including a dry Rose called Faive made from Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Franco’s Rustico (their best seller and lying ½ way between dry and sweet) is made from 100% Prosecco that receives both its initial and second fermentation in stainless steel. I enjoyed this wine as the base for Bellini cocktails.