Fratelli Revello Dolcetto d' Alba (2009) Piemonte

A delicious Dolcetto from Fratelli Revello, a family owned winery that was founded in 1976 (a great vintage for Barolo, BTW). Brothers Carlo and Lorenzo took over running the winery in the mid 1980's, and in the early nineties, with the help of Elio Altare, greatly improved and transformed the vineyard. With about 12 hectares under vine, the brothers produce a single vineyard Barolo along with some Barbera and Dolcetto. The 2009 Dolcetto is a very deep purple in color with a strong nose of fruity blueberry. Fresh tasting. Fresh and plush at the same time. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. Very enjoyable.

Vinosa Malvasia (2008) Puglia

A lite Italian white from Vinosia, a winery founded in 2003 by Mario and Luciano Ercolino, whose family founded the famed Feudi di San Gregorio winery in Campania. Mario, formerly head winemaker at Feudi di San Gregorio, oversees the winemaking process at Vinosia, while Luciano takes care of marketing and distribution. The 2008 Malvasia Salento is 100% Malvasia from the Salento area of Puglia. Anemic color. Nice citrus nose, however. Vibrant acidity. Refreshing.

Col D'Orcia Rosso di Montalcino (2007) Tuscany

Just an OK Italian red from Col D'Orcia, an internationally celebrated producer of Brunello di Montalcino. The estate, which dates back to the 1700's, is located on the outskirts of the medieval village of Montalcino in Tuscany's Siena Province and is owned by Count Francesco Marone Cinzano. The Count employs superstar enologist Pablo Harri who produces a line-up that ranges from a Muscat to their flagship Brunello. The 1,300 acre estate (of which 370 are planted in vine) also produces a super-lux olive oil. The 2007 Rosso di Montalcino is 100% Sangiovese that is aged for 12 months in a mix of french oak barriques and smaller Slavonion oak casks. Rich, ruby-red in color. Strong, dark fruit nose. Very fruity on the palate; although moderated somewhat by the oak. Not as long on the finish as I hoped.

The "Grade A" Old-Fashioned

In one of the greatest uses of boiled tree sap, I give you a terrific drink recipe. Adapted from a recipe from renowned mixologist Jonny Raglin, it's everything a cocktail should be.

Makes one drink

1 lemon peel

1/4 oz grade A maple syrup

2 dashes Angostura bitters

1/4 oz water

2 oz Rye whiskey (I use Redemption)

Ice

In an old-fashioned glass, muddle the lemon peel with maple syrup and bitters. Add the water, rye, and ice. Stir gently and serve. Repeat as necessary.

Have It Your Way? Purist Chefs Won't Have It

Amen to this.

Ghiomo Lavai Barbera d' Alba (2006) Piemonte

A not so great Barbera d' Alba from Azienda Agricola “Ghiomo” di Anfossi Giuesppino. Their estate, which was first established in the early 1800's, takes its name from the Ghiomo farmhouse; a former monastery. The estate occupies some prime real estate; right in the heart of Roero, just a few miles from Alba. Signor Giuesppino's Lavai Barbera is a heavy wine that's inky dark-red in color. Aged in a combination of stainless and oak. Hot like gasoline on the palate. Better the second day after it was opened, but in my opinion, the wine shows little finesse.

Quattro Mani Toh-kai (2008) Slovenia

A pinpoint oxford from Quatro Mani, or “four hands”, a concept of Italian wine importer Paolo Domenghetti of Domaine Select. His idea was to have four winemakers, each representing a different Italian wine region, create wines which would be marketed under the Quattro Mani label. Quattro Mani wines are produced from estate-grown fruit using sustainable agriculture, and are bottled at the source. Quattro Mani made its debut in 2006 with a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo made by acclaimed winemaker Attilio Pagli. Quattro Mani's Toh-Kai, produced by Movia’s Aleš Kristancic, followed in 2008. Franciacorta, produced by Mario Falcetti, joined the lineup in 2010. The Movia winery was founded in 1700 and was purchased by the Kristancic family in 1820. Today Ales Kristancic farms 37 acres of vines. His meticulous, low-yield farming allows for the production of barely 6,000 cases of wine annually. The Friulano (Tocai) grapes for the Toh-Kai are grown in Movia’s organically farmed Exto Gredic vineyard in Slovenia, just a canned ham throw from Friuli. The wine is a beautifully clear, straw-yellow color, with ripe, luscious pear flavors. Absolutely sparkles in the glass. Vinified in stainless steel. Its bright acidity makes it a perfect food wine. Put down the Pinot Grigio and enjoy.

Filomusi Guelfi Bianco Le Scuderie del Cielo (2008) Abruzzo

A knock-out white wine from Filomusi Guelfi, an Abruzzian winery whose family members (the Fiolmusi's and the Guelfi's) have been working the soil since the 16th century. The wine is an unknown blend of Chardonnay, Malvasia, Sauvignon Blanc, and Cococciola. Fragrant nose of citrus, apples, and peaches. Sparkling straw-yellow in color. Vibrant acidity. The name "Scuderie del Cielo" means "Stables in the Sky" from the coat of arms on the label that contains a winged horse, the idea for which was taken from a drawing on a tapestry belonging to owner Lorenzo Filomusi's grandmother. The coat of arms on all my tapestry's are not anywhere near as cool.

Paolo Bea Santa Chiara (2007) Umbria

A terrific, unique Italian white (nearly red) wine from quirky, artisan producer, Paolo Bea. The winery, situated on 15 hectares in Montefalco in Umbria, (home of the only type of lentils that Martha Stewart and my family eat) started bottling wine in 1980. The vineyard is a family affair, with all aspects of the winemaking process performed by various members of the Bea family. All have a passion for the philosophy of respect for maintaining the balance between man and nature. In 2004, son Giampiero, together with winemakers Angiolino Maule, Fabrizio Niccolaini and Stanislao Radikon founded the Consorzio Vini Veri, a movement of thought which aims to unite winemakers who share a common goal of extracting wine only by natural processes. Bea's Santa Chiara is a blend of 20% Grechetto, 20% Malvasia, 20% Chardonnay, 20% Sauvignon, and 20% Gargenega. Because of the long maceration on the skins and lack of added sulfates, the wine is nearly orange in color. Aged for one year in stainless. Strong nose of dried fruit and bread. Nice acidity. Heavy and delicious.

Massolino Dolcetto d' Alba (2009 ) Piemonte

An utterly delicious wine from Massolino, a family owned and operated winery that has been making classic Barbera's, Dolcetto's, and Barolo's in Serralunga d' Alba since the late 1800's. Bright ruby red with deep purplish hues. Fruity, black fruit nose. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. Even though, due to ongoing kitchen remodeling, I drank this wine from an unwashed Reidel glass (I did wipe it out after its last usage with a damp paper napkin), I enjoyed it thoroughly. I even liked the font used on the label - very slick. Around $12 a bottle.