Thursday, July 2, 2009

Domenico Clerico Barbera d’Alba “Trevigne” (2005) Piemonte




A fantastic Barbera from Domenico Clerico, who Robert Parker calls "One of the most gifted winemakers in Piedmont...these are wines of extraordinary richness, amazing aromatics, and sensual personalities that satiate both the hedonistic and the intellectual senses." Bob’s lyrical prose aside, Clerico IS one of the most respected names in all Barolo, and his wines are renowned for both winemaking of the highest quality and for exceptional character derived from outstanding vineyard holdings in some of the greatest crus of Monforte. As with the other greats of Piedmont, Clerico’s Barbara and Dolcetto are an easy and affordable way to enjoy the genius of the winemaker, and represent two of the greatest wines made from those varietals. An agronomist first, Clerico practices "green" farming methods; he uses no systemic plant protection products; no herbicides; and when needed, only the lightest touch of organic fertilizer (manure). Clerico’s single-cru Barbera d’Alba "Trevigne" is 100% Barbera that is matured for over a year in French oak barriques, 40% of which are new. Intense, purple/red color. Strong nose of red berries and fruit. Very soft, velvety mouth feel. Effortless to drink. Because of my brother-in-law’s diet, I was forced to drink it all myself.

Monday, June 29, 2009

Bastianich Rosato (2008) Friuli-Venezia Giulia


A refreshing summer Rose from Bastianich, a 70 acre Friulian winery founded in 1997 by superstar chef Lidia Bastianich and her follically-challenged son Joe. The wine is made from 100% Refosco, a grape known for producing spicy reds with dark fruit flavors. To make their Rosato, winemakers Emilio Del Medico, Maurizio Castelli, de-stem, soft press, then ferment in stainless steel 40% of the grapes. 50% of the grapes are then de-stemmed, soft pressed and fermented using some whole grape clusters with some brief skin contact to impart added aromas. The remaining 10% of juice (which imparts additional complexity to the wine) is derived from the Salasso method (a method whereby some juice is taken from the macerating Refosco that is used for Bastianich’s Vespa Rosso and Calabrone). After fermentation, the wines are blended and left to age in stainless steel for 4 months. The wine has a beautifully bright pink hue, with a terrific fruit nose and palate. Heavier than expected mouth-feel. Vibrant, refreshing acidity. Great on its own as a summer quaffer or with spicy foods. Stelvin screw cap.

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Masseria Li Veli "Passamante" Salento IGT (2007) Puglia


A terrific Italian red wine from Masseria Li Veli, a small (66 hectares) Puglian winery, consisting of partly owned and partly leased vineyards, cultivated with Primitivo, Negroamaro, Susumaniello, Aleatico and Cabernet Sauvignon. Li Veli’s "Passamante" is 100% Negroamaro (which means dark-dark in the local dialect) that is aged for six months in wooden casks. Intense, dark ruby red color; highly perfumed with a strong, bright, red berry fruit nose. Well balanced acidity and tannins. Soft, velvety finish. Was great with grilled flat iron steak and grilled vegetables.

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Pertinace Dolcetto d’ Alba (2007) Piemonte


A very nice, clean Dolcetto from "Cantina Vignaioli Elvio Pertinace", a small cooperative of 15 Piemontese growers. Founded in 1972, Pertinace has been a long-time supplier of grapes to other top producers. Recent investments in their winery now allow them to take full advantage of their excellent vineyard sites under their own label. Traditionalists, Pertinace uses a combination of low yields in the vineyards, and TLC to allow the character of their fruit to be expressed in the wine. Critical acclaim has followed with positive reviews from the great oracles. The 2007 Dolcetto d’Alba is ruby red/violet in color and terrifically smooth to drink. Vinified and aged in stainless. A great every day, Italian wine.

Monday, June 8, 2009

Tenuta Garetto Tra Neuit e Di Barbera d’ Asti (2007) Piemonte


A terrific Barbera from Tenuta Garetto, a small (18 hectare) winery owned by Alessandro Garetto that produces about 100,000 bottles of mostly Barbera along with some Dolcetto, Grignolino and Chardonnay. High density (about 4,500 vines per hectare) planting. The winery has a range of vine ages from new (this wine) to 60-70 years old. 100% Barbera. Very deep, ruby-red color; nice fruit nose. Vinified and aged in stainless. Plush on the palate. Delicious with grilled meatstuffs.

Thursday, June 4, 2009

Barry's New "Stache"



YEEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!

Monday, June 1, 2009

Podere Rocche Dei Manzoni di Valentino Migliorini “Bricco Manzoni” Langhe (2000) Piemonte


An unpleasant "Super-Piedmont" from Podere Rocche Dei Manzoni di Valentino Migliorini; an estate that dates back to the 1700’s. The current iteration of the winery came into being in 1974 when Valentino Migliorini and his wife Jolanda bought the property and spent significant sums on improvements. Today, the Migliorini’s own about 100 prized acres, mostly in Monforte d’ Alba. In addition to several single-vineyard Barolo’s, the estate also produces Bricco Manzoni, a noxious blend of 80% Nebbiolo and 20% Barbera. The wine is fermented on the skins for two weeks in stainless steel vats, followed by 12 months of aging in oak barriques, and an additional 12 months in the bottle. Dull red in color. Heavy oak with some fruit on the nose. 90 rating by Parker. Heavy alcohol/gasoline on the palate. Brandy-like burn on the way down. Way not worth the overblown rating and price. 14% alcohol.

Thursday, May 21, 2009

Marengo Valmaggiore Nebbiolo D’Alba (2004) Piemonte


An easy-to-overindulge, headache-inducing Italian red wine from Azienda Agricola Mario Marengo, a low environmental impact/sustainable/natural practicing Piemontese winery. The winery is run by son Marco, who took over for his Father Mario after his passing in 2001. The winery produces about 5,000 bottles a year on their tiny, 1.5 hectare estate. They produce two, single vineyard Barolo’s; Brunate and Bricco Viole as well as small quantities of Dolcetto and the Nebbiolo d'Alba I enjoyed. The 2004 Valmaggiore (named after Marengo’s really tiny .38 hectare vineyard) is 100% Nebbiolo that I found unusually refreshing and fruity both on the nose and palate. The wine is vinified in stainless and aged for 18 months in oak barriques (30% new). Albeisa bottle. A couple of après-wine Advil knocked the headache right out. (maybe it was the lack of pesticides)

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Kris Allen; Italian Wine Lover, 2009 American Idol Winner






The following is another imagined and partially plagiarized interview with Italian wine lover and 2009 American Idol winner, Kris Allen:

Kris, congratulations on your being voted 2009 American Idol. What was the first wine that made you realize you loved wine?

Damijan Ribolla Gialla 2002 made me change the way I look at white wine, and the first time I had Quintarelli Amarone I knew I’d never tasted anything even close to that before. However I have to say that the wine that did it for me, that truly made me realize that I love wine was Bartolo Mascarello’s 1989 Barolo (out of magnum). Like the Quintarelli it possessed layers and depth that I could draw few comparisons to, and definitely had the "what was that?" impact on me. However the one thing that made this one truly stand out was it’s elegance. To this day if you asked me to describe my idea of “elegance” I would have to say that that wine is an example that I would use.

Describe your perfect meal and the wine you'd pair with it.

Well, prior to Idol, I was in Piemonte, so how could I not mention white truffles on Tajarin with aged Barolo. But there is also something to be said about the simplicity of a white like Verdicchio from Le Marche (look for Sartarelli) that work their magic with the seafood of the Adriatic on a summer day. The zing and citrus nuances bring just about any fish back to life - no sauces needed here - just some grilled fish and lemon. A Rosso di Montalcino with some pici topped with wild boar ragu is also a nice, simple classic pair.

You do realize that everyone wanted Danny Gokey to win, don't you?

Yes I do.

Well, congratulations again, and thank you for your time.

It was my pleasure.

Thursday, May 7, 2009

Borgo Magredo Pinot Nero (2007) Friuli-Venezia Giulia



A fruity Pinot Nero from Borgo Magredo, a winery owned by Italian insurance giant “Generali”. At almost 620 acres in size and a production capacity of one million bottles per year, Borgo Magredo is one of the largest wineries in Friuli. The winery is located in the "Grave del Friuli" appellation of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The characteristic gravelly soil of this area is created by the Meduna River, which flows down from Carnic Pre-Alps bringing its pebbles and stones along for the ride. The stones make perfect soil for growing grapes; the Italian word "Magredo" means meager (feel free to Wiki “Borgo”). The stones in the soil also capture heat during the day and release it at night, protecting the grapes from low temperatures. In a final word on the area’s stones; they were used in a famous mosaic from the Romanic Cathedral of Santa Eufemia in Grado that inspired the winery’s logo. The wine is 100% Pinot Nero, violet red in color with a nose and palate of blueberry and raspberries. Nice, round finish. Aged for 3 months in Slavonian Oak casks. 12% alcohol.