Have It Your Way? Purist Chefs Won't Have It

Amen to this.

Ghiomo Lavai Barbera d' Alba (2006) Piemonte

A not so great Barbera d' Alba from Azienda Agricola “Ghiomo” di Anfossi Giuesppino. Their estate, which was first established in the early 1800's, takes its name from the Ghiomo farmhouse; a former monastery. The estate occupies some prime real estate; right in the heart of Roero, just a few miles from Alba. Signor Giuesppino's Lavai Barbera is a heavy wine that's inky dark-red in color. Aged in a combination of stainless and oak. Hot like gasoline on the palate. Better the second day after it was opened, but in my opinion, the wine shows little finesse.

Quattro Mani Toh-kai (2008) Slovenia

A pinpoint oxford from Quatro Mani, or “four hands”, a concept of Italian wine importer Paolo Domenghetti of Domaine Select. His idea was to have four winemakers, each representing a different Italian wine region, create wines which would be marketed under the Quattro Mani label. Quattro Mani wines are produced from estate-grown fruit using sustainable agriculture, and are bottled at the source. Quattro Mani made its debut in 2006 with a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo made by acclaimed winemaker Attilio Pagli. Quattro Mani's Toh-Kai, produced by Movia’s Aleš Kristancic, followed in 2008. Franciacorta, produced by Mario Falcetti, joined the lineup in 2010. The Movia winery was founded in 1700 and was purchased by the Kristancic family in 1820. Today Ales Kristancic farms 37 acres of vines. His meticulous, low-yield farming allows for the production of barely 6,000 cases of wine annually. The Friulano (Tocai) grapes for the Toh-Kai are grown in Movia’s organically farmed Exto Gredic vineyard in Slovenia, just a canned ham throw from Friuli. The wine is a beautifully clear, straw-yellow color, with ripe, luscious pear flavors. Absolutely sparkles in the glass. Vinified in stainless steel. Its bright acidity makes it a perfect food wine. Put down the Pinot Grigio and enjoy.

Filomusi Guelfi Bianco Le Scuderie del Cielo (2008) Abruzzo

A knock-out white wine from Filomusi Guelfi, an Abruzzian winery whose family members (the Fiolmusi's and the Guelfi's) have been working the soil since the 16th century. The wine is an unknown blend of Chardonnay, Malvasia, Sauvignon Blanc, and Cococciola. Fragrant nose of citrus, apples, and peaches. Sparkling straw-yellow in color. Vibrant acidity. The name "Scuderie del Cielo" means "Stables in the Sky" from the coat of arms on the label that contains a winged horse, the idea for which was taken from a drawing on a tapestry belonging to owner Lorenzo Filomusi's grandmother. The coat of arms on all my tapestry's are not anywhere near as cool.

Paolo Bea Santa Chiara (2007) Umbria

A terrific, unique Italian white (nearly red) wine from quirky, artisan producer, Paolo Bea. The winery, situated on 15 hectares in Montefalco in Umbria, (home of the only type of lentils that Martha Stewart and my family eat) started bottling wine in 1980. The vineyard is a family affair, with all aspects of the winemaking process performed by various members of the Bea family. All have a passion for the philosophy of respect for maintaining the balance between man and nature. In 2004, son Giampiero, together with winemakers Angiolino Maule, Fabrizio Niccolaini and Stanislao Radikon founded the Consorzio Vini Veri, a movement of thought which aims to unite winemakers who share a common goal of extracting wine only by natural processes. Bea's Santa Chiara is a blend of 20% Grechetto, 20% Malvasia, 20% Chardonnay, 20% Sauvignon, and 20% Gargenega. Because of the long maceration on the skins and lack of added sulfates, the wine is nearly orange in color. Aged for one year in stainless. Strong nose of dried fruit and bread. Nice acidity. Heavy and delicious.

Massolino Dolcetto d' Alba (2009 ) Piemonte

An utterly delicious wine from Massolino, a family owned and operated winery that has been making classic Barbera's, Dolcetto's, and Barolo's in Serralunga d' Alba since the late 1800's. Bright ruby red with deep purplish hues. Fruity, black fruit nose. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. Even though, due to ongoing kitchen remodeling, I drank this wine from an unwashed Reidel glass (I did wipe it out after its last usage with a damp paper napkin), I enjoyed it thoroughly. I even liked the font used on the label - very slick. Around $12 a bottle.

Triple J - Like Father; Like Son

On Tuesday, U.S. Rep. and Chicago Mayoral hopeful Jesse Jackson Jr. ("Triple J"), said he was "deeply saddened" about a relationship with a Washington D.C. restaurant hostess, but called it "preposterous" to contend that he asked a fund-raiser to approach former Illinois Governor Rod Blagojevich with an offer of $6 million in exchange for President Obama's former Senate seat. Triple J also had no comments regarding reports that he used campaign funds to fly Washington D.C. restaurant hostess/swimsuit model/social acquaintance Giovana Huidobro (a Rachel Uchitel wannabe) to Chicago, allegedly at the Congressman's request. In separate statements, both Triple J and his wife, Chicago 7th Ward Alderman Sandi Jackson (who by the way, looks a lot like Latoya Jackson) asked that their privacy be respected with regard to the restaurant hostess/swimsuit model/social acquaintance. Triple J's action also inadvertently let slip a secret formerly known only to players like himself and Tiger Woods - that restaurant hostesses are available to be flown in for "social acquaintance" purposes. Who knew that this was possible? I sure didn't. I thought hostesses just greeted customers and led them to a table. And how do they find the time? Besides her hostessing duties, Ms. Huidobro found time to fly to Chicago to visit with a Congressman, do a swimsuit photo shoot, and get interviewed by the FBI - what time management skills! Triple J; it sounds like you got a keeper!

Demarie Roero Arneis (2008) Piemonte

A big jam donut with cream on top from Azienda Agricola Demarie, a multi-generational producer who farms 14 hectares of vineyards in the heart of the Roero region of Piemonte. Beautiful sparkling straw-yellow in color. Fresh, floral, fruity nose. Full bodied and smooth. Crisp acidity. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. A terrific varietal that is worth looking for as a change of pace from the ubiquitous Pinot Grigio.

Terra di Vulcano Aglianico del Vulture (2007) Basilicata

A red pencil box from Terra di Vulcano, one of two product lines (albeit the lower-end) of Azienda Agricola Bisceglia, a winery founded in 2001 by Mario Bisceglia. 100% Aglianico, grown in the Vulture DOC, near the ancient volcano of Mt. Vulture (great name!) in Basilicata. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. Inky-red in color. Strong nose of spicy darkness. Utterly smooth and well-balanced; belies its low price. A very pleasant full-bodied red.

Cantina Terlano Terlaner Classico (2009) Trentino-Alto Adige

A crisp, northern Italian white wine from Cantina Terlano, an Alto-Adigeon co-op that was founded way back in 1893. Today, the co-op (one of the smallest in the province) has 100+ members that naturally farm over 150 hectares. Together, they produce about 1.2 million bottles of wine annually. The 2009 Terlaner Classico is a proprietary blend of 60% Pinot Bianco, 30% Chardonnay, and 10% Sauvignon Blanc. Yellow/green in color. A nose that is more citrusy than peppery. Brilliant acidity. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. Hock bottle. Opened at a family Labor Day party and after singing a few tunes on a karaoke machine ("Paper Roses" among others and not my key by the way) I forgot whether or not the cork was synthetic. A very nice wine.