Barbera-Que

As summer fast approaches, ones thoughts tend to stray to the sizzling sounds and smoke of the outdoor barbeque grill. With its lush red fruit and bright acidity, I can think of no better Italian red that goes better with outdoor grilling than a Barbera. Barbera is the most heavily planted grape in Piedmont, accounting for more than 50% of the total red wine production in the region. Depending upon where in the three DOC’s its grown (Alba, Asti, or Monferrato) a broad range of styles can be displayed. In addition to climactic variations, differing winemaking techniques can also bring about changes in the wine. Barbera’s constants are a deep, ruby-red color, vibrant acidity and a low level of tannins. The variables are the level of fruit extraction (high levels are achieved from growing the grapes on choice south-facing sites) and the amount of tannins added to the wine by aging it in oak barrels. As a starting point in choosing a Barbera, you could select a “baseline” bottling; one simply labeled as Barbera d’Alba, Barbera d’Asti, or Barbera del Monferrato. These wines are more likely to be simpler, with no oak aging. A step up from the “baseline” wine, would be a Barbera from a benchmark Barolo or Barbaresco producer such as Pio Cesare, Vietti, or Renato Ratti. Here you can experience a fine winemakers deftness and skill in handling the grape. Moving further up the scale, you could choose a Barbera carrying a “single-vineyard” designation which would be even denser, fruity and rich from time spent in oak barrels. Hilberg Pasquero, Aldo Conterno, and Prunnoto are some examples of this top tier of Barberas. No matter what level you choose, you will be rewarded with a delicious wine that has the heft and class to complement and enhance your summer grilling.

Allegrini Palazzo della Torre (2001) Veneto

A classic Valpolicella from Allegrini, one of the largest vineyard assemblages (350 acres, producing nearly 1,000,000 bottles annually) in Veneto. Their Palazzo della Torre contains the usual blend of 70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, and 5% Sangiovese. It has a deep, ruby-red color and a full nose of blackberries and licorice. From 2000 to 2005, Palazzo della Torre has been selected by Wine Spectator as one of the "Top 100 wines of the world". The wine, which is aged for 15 months in both barriques and barrels, and then aged for an additional 7 months in the bottle prior to release, uses 30% dried grapes for a Amarone Jr. feel. This rich, full-bodied wine is a great accompaniment to anything roasted or grilled.

Italian Rose Wines - Easy Summer Drinking

Ever since White Zinfandel left its scourge upon the wine landscape, Rose wines have been looked down upon. But because they are a perfect warm weather drink, lying somewhere between refreshment and flavor, they needn't be. In fact, in the coastal regions of southern Italy, a good Rosato is a prized wine. The history of Rose wines in the south of Italy dates back to a time when fermentation could not be controlled by refrigeration. To make a red wine, time is needed for the wine to macerate on their skins. Because the heat of the day would stop the fermentation process cold, these "half-made" reds became Roses by default. Today, Rose wines are made by either macerating a red wine for a short time or blending a red and white wine together. Abruzzo's famous red, Montepulciano d' Abruzzo, is known as a Cerasuola (meaning cherry-red) when vinified in the Rose style. In Puglia, the Negroamoro and Primitivo grape are used as a Rose base. Some Abruzzo producers to look for: Spinelli, Mascigelli, Cataldi, Madonna, Illuminati. Some Puglian producers: Leone de Castris, Damiono Calo. While the south dominates the Rose scene, the north of Italy also is represented with the pink. Catalupo, a Piedmontese winemaker produces a great Rose from the Nebbiolo grape and Bastianich from Friuli vinifies the native Refosco varietal. Because of their lack of tannins, look for young Roses. They are best consumed the summer after their vintage; when their fruit is bright and their acidity vibrant.

Seghesio Barbera d’ Alba (2005) Piemonte

Brothers Aldo and Riccardo Seghesio, who produce solid Barolo’s on their Monforte estate, miss the mark with their entry-level Barbera d’ Alba. The wine, which is aged in stainless, has a harsh edge that could be softened with some oak aging. A better choice from this winemaker would be their “La Chiesa” Barbera d’ Alba which receives twelve months of aging in new oak barriques.

Banfi Chianti Classico (2004) Tuscany

A very nice Chianti Classico from Banfi, a huge (2,400 acre) winery owned by the Mariani family of New York. With about twenty wines in their portfolio, including some excellent Brunello’s, their Chianti Classico is a fine representative of the varietal, with a deep, ruby-red color and a nose of black cherry. Soft, smooth finish.

Tenute Cisa Asinari Dei Marchesi di Gresy Nebbiolo Martinenga Langhe (2005) Piemonte

An unusually light-bodied Nebbiolo from Marchesi di Gresy, whose owner, Alberto di Gresy, is best known for his muscular Barbaresco’s. While the 2005 Martinenga (named for the vineyard) had the characteristic nose and color of a Nebbiolo, it did not have the weight and heft that is typical of the grape and di Gresy’s marketing. Very abrupt finish. Undoubtedly the wine needs time, although I’m not sure it will help a great deal.

Dievole Chianti Classico Vendemmia (2005) Tuscany

A nice, serviceable Chianti Classico from Azienda Agricola Dievole. Their Vendemmia is a blend of Sangiovese from all sixteen of Dievole's vineyards. The wine is aged for 12 months; with 80% of the wine being aged in huge 8,000 liter oak vat/casks while the remaining 20% is aged in French and Oak barriques. The wine has a fragrant black fruit nose and smooth tannins.

Cerulli Spinozzi Torre Migliori Montepulciano d' Abruzzo (2004) Abruzzo

A stellar Italian wine from Cerulli Spinozzi. Their Torre Migliori Montepulciano d' Abruzzo is produced in the Colline Terramne region of Abruzzo, and has a pronounced blackberry fruit nose and spice on the palate. The wine is wonderfully smooth, with velvety tannins, and a long finish. Truly a pleasure to drink.

Emilio Bulfon Cividin (2006) Friuli-Venezia Giulia

One more reason to not drink Pinot Grigio. Some 30 years ago, winemaker Emilio Bulfon rediscovered and replanted several ancient native Friulian grape varieties in the hills of the province of Pordenone in western Friuli. Today, Bulfon produces wines exclusively from these ancient grapes. One of his whites is Cividin, a straw-yellow wine with a fragrant nose of apple and pear. This un-oaked wine has a nice acidity that is very food friendly. A great, unusual wine. As a side note, each of Bulfon's wines are adorned with a different color label designed by Bulfon that depict a detail of a medieval fresco of the last supper found on a wall of a local church.

Alois Campole Aglianico (2004) Campania

A delicious wine from the Alois family, who for centuries have produced world famous textiles that grace the walls of such places as the Louvre and the White House, and since 1992, have been producing great wines from little-known varietals. With the help of oenologist Riccardo Cotarella and agronomist Nicola Traducca, Alois uses "green" farming methods to vinify four varieties of wine on their 14 hectare estate in Campania (the shin of the Italian boot). Campole contains 70% Aglianico and 30% Casavecchia. The softness of the Casavecchia grape cools the power of the Aglianico. The wine has a beautiful dark color and a nose of licorice and dark fruit. The wine is aged entirely in stainless steel so the fruit is not masked. The wine is well-structured and has a long, smooth finish.