Vinosa Malvasia (2008) Puglia

A lite Italian white from Vinosia, a winery founded in 2003 by Mario and Luciano Ercolino, whose family founded the famed Feudi di San Gregorio winery in Campania. Mario, formerly head winemaker at Feudi di San Gregorio, oversees the winemaking process at Vinosia, while Luciano takes care of marketing and distribution. The 2008 Malvasia Salento is 100% Malvasia from the Salento area of Puglia. Anemic color. Nice citrus nose, however. Vibrant acidity. Refreshing.

Col D'Orcia Rosso di Montalcino (2007) Tuscany

Just an OK Italian red from Col D'Orcia, an internationally celebrated producer of Brunello di Montalcino. The estate, which dates back to the 1700's, is located on the outskirts of the medieval village of Montalcino in Tuscany's Siena Province and is owned by Count Francesco Marone Cinzano. The Count employs superstar enologist Pablo Harri who produces a line-up that ranges from a Muscat to their flagship Brunello. The 1,300 acre estate (of which 370 are planted in vine) also produces a super-lux olive oil. The 2007 Rosso di Montalcino is 100% Sangiovese that is aged for 12 months in a mix of french oak barriques and smaller Slavonion oak casks. Rich, ruby-red in color. Strong, dark fruit nose. Very fruity on the palate; although moderated somewhat by the oak. Not as long on the finish as I hoped.

The "Grade A" Old-Fashioned

In one of the greatest uses of boiled tree sap, I give you a terrific drink recipe. Adapted from a recipe from renowned mixologist Jonny Raglin, it's everything a cocktail should be.

Makes one drink

1 lemon peel

1/4 oz grade A maple syrup

2 dashes Angostura bitters

1/4 oz water

2 oz Rye whiskey (I use Redemption)

Ice

In an old-fashioned glass, muddle the lemon peel with maple syrup and bitters. Add the water, rye, and ice. Stir gently and serve. Repeat as necessary.

Have It Your Way? Purist Chefs Won't Have It

Amen to this.