Thursday, May 15, 2008

Barbera-Que


As summer fast approaches, ones thoughts tend to stray to the sizzling sounds and smoke of the outdoor barbeque grill. With its lush red fruit and bright acidity, I can think of no better Italian red that goes better with outdoor grilling than a Barbera. Barbera is the most heavily planted grape in Piedmont, accounting for more than 50% of the total red wine production in the region. Depending upon where in the three DOC’s its grown (Alba, Asti, or Monferrato) a broad range of styles can be displayed. In addition to climactic variations, differing winemaking techniques can also bring about changes in the wine. Barbera’s constants are a deep, ruby-red color, vibrant acidity and a low level of tannins. The variables are the level of fruit extraction (high levels are achieved from growing the grapes on choice south-facing sites) and the amount of tannins added to the wine by aging it in oak barrels. As a starting point in choosing a Barbera, you could select a “baseline” bottling; one simply labeled as Barbera d’Alba, Barbera d’Asti, or Barbera del Monferrato. These wines are more likely to be simpler, with no oak aging. A step up from the “baseline” wine, would be a Barbera from a benchmark Barolo or Barbaresco producer such as Pio Cesare, Vietti, or Renato Ratti. Here you can experience a fine winemakers deftness and skill in handling the grape. Moving further up the scale, you could choose a Barbera carrying a “single-vineyard” designation which would be even denser, fruity and rich from time spent in oak barrels. Hilberg Pasquero, Aldo Conterno, and Prunnoto are some examples of this top tier of Barberas. No matter what level you choose, you will be rewarded with a delicious wine that has the heft and class to complement and enhance your summer grilling.

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