Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani Vigna Tecc (2009) Piedmont

A suffrutescent effort from Matteo Sardagna, the great-grandson of the estates namesake, Luigi Einaudi; the first president of the Italian Republic from 1948-55. Dolcetto, the everyday wine of the "Giuseppe sei botti" of Piedmont, is a wine that goes with everything; its light tannin structure and fresh acidity makes it an excellent all-around red. Einaudi produces more than a dozen varietals, including 3 levels of Dolcetto's; the Classico, which uses grapes from all of the poderi; the Vigna Tecc, which uses selected grapes from the oldest crus; and the Filari, which uses grapes from the very best plants. The 2009 Vigna Tecc, named for one of the four hills on the estate, is as smooth as Luigi was handsome. The wine is ruby-red in color, with a soft black cherry/violet nose, and in my opinion, unnecessarily oaked.

Argiano Non Confunditur (2007) Tuscany

A lusty Italian red from Argiano, a historic (established in 1581) Montalcino estate now owned by the Countess Noemi Marone Cinzano. (yikes!) The wines name; Non Confunditur, is a Latin term that is written on the Argiano's crest and was the motto of the estates former owners, the Lovateli Gaetani d'Aragona family. (double-yikes!) The wine is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot, and 20% Syrah. Each of the four different varietals are fermented in separate tanks in order to preserve their individual characteristics. Before blending, each wine is aged for several months in both second passage French barriques and large Slovenian oak casks. The blended wine is then aged for an additional four months in the bottle before release. Deep ruby-red color. Strong berry/spicy aroma. Rich mouthfeel. Smooth finish. The estates wine maker is Dane, Hans Vinding Diers. (triple-yikes!)

Italian Rose Wines - Easy Summer Drinking Redux

I wrote this post back in May of 2008. Because I'm lazy....here it is again. Ever since White Zinfandel left its scourge upon the wine landscape, Rose wines have been looked down upon. But because they are a perfect warm weather drink, lying somewhere between refreshment and flavor, they needn't be. In fact, in the coastal regions of southern Italy, a good Rosato is a prized wine. The history of Rose wines in the south of Italy dates back to a time when fermentation could not be controlled by refrigeration. To make a red wine, time is needed for the wine to macerate on their skins. Because the heat of the day would stop the fermentation process cold, these "half-made" reds became Roses by default. Today, Rose wines are made by either macerating a red wine for a short time or blending a red and white wine together. Abruzzo's famous red, Montepulciano d' Abruzzo, is known as a Cerasuola (meaning cherry-red) when vinified in the Rose style. In Puglia, the Negroamoro and Primitivo grape are used as a Rose base. Some Abruzzo producers to look for: Spinelli, Mascigelli, Cataldi, Madonna, Illuminati. Some Puglian producers: Leone de Castris, Damiono Calo. While the south dominates the Rose scene, the north of Italy also is represented with the pink. Catalupo, a Piedmontese winemaker produces a great Rose from the Nebbiolo grape and Bastianich from Friuli vinifies the native Refosco varietal. Because of their lack of tannins, look for young Roses. They are best consumed the summer after their vintage; when their fruit is bright and their acidity vibrant.

Fattoria Nittardi Ad Astra (2006) Tuscany

A delicious Super-Tuscan from Nittardi, a traditional wine growing estate located half-way between Florence and Siena in the center of Tuscany. During the 16th Century, the estate belonged to Michelangelo; who was so enamored with his wines, he often sent them to the Pope as gifts. Over the centuries the property changed hands many times until 1982 when it was purchased by the current owners, a Frankfurt publisher and art gallery owner named Peter Femfert (say Peter Femfert from Frankfurt ten times fast!) and his wife Stefania, a historian from Venice. The estate continues its long association with art by having an artist design the label and wrapping paper for a limited edition bottling of Casanuova di Nittardi wine each year. The 2006 Ad Astra is a blend of 30% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet, 20% Merlot, and 20% Syrah. Deep, ruby-red color. Powerful dark fruit nose. Aged in a mix of steel tanks and in small French oak barrels for six months. Nice smooth fininsh. A good value.

Lucchetti Lacrima di Morro d' Alba (2008) Marche

A tasty Italian red from Lucchetti, a small (34 acre) winery whose owner, Mario, who along with a number of other small producers, rescued the Lacrima grape from extinction. The name of the grape; Lacrima, is Italian for tear, and comes from the fact that the grape skin, as it matures, tends to crack thus allowing "tears" of juice to form. In Calabria, the same grape is called Gaglioppo. Reddish/purple/violet in color. Raspberry/spicy nose similar to a Zinfandel. Luscious mouth feel. Great with grilled foods. Inexpensive.

Lo Duca Mamertino (2009) Emilia-Romagna

Utter garbage from Lo Duca, a New Berlin, Wisconsin importer of Italian wines, consumer electronics and musical instruments. The wine is a frizzante Chardonnay, purchased only because I went shopping without my reading glasses. I cannot think of a circumstance where this wine would be drinkable. I am posting a picture of the wine instead of my usual "garbage can" image in order to provide a warning to others. Awful.

Domenico Clerico Dolcetto Langhe "Visadi" (2008) Piemonte

A terrific Dolcetto from Domenico Clerico, who Robert Parker calls "One of the most gifted winemakers in Piedmont...these are wines of extraordinary richness, amazing aromatics, and sensual personalities that satiate both the hedonistic and the intellectual senses." Bob's usual bullshit aside, Clerico IS one of the most respected names in Piemonte, and his wines are renowned for both winemaking of the highest quality and for exceptional varietal character derived from his outstanding holdings in some of the greatest crus in Monforte. As with the other greats of Piedmont, Clerico's Barbera's and Dolcetto's are an easy and affordable way to enjoy the genius of a world class winemaker. An agronomist first, Clerico practices "green" farming methods; he uses no systemic plant protection products; no herbicides; and when needed, only the lightest touch of organic fertilizer (manure). Instead of doing two separate bottlings; Dolcetto di Dogliani (from vineyards near the cellar) and Dolcetto d'Alba from his Ginestra vineyard, Clerico declassifies the fruit to produce this Dolcetto di Langhe. Concord grape purple in color. Beautifully perfumed nose of dark fruit. Very soft; velvety. Aged for 5-6 months in part old/part new barriques. As with his other wines, effortless to drink.

Albino Rocca Rossa di Rocca (2009) Piemonte

A fantastic wine from Albino Rocca, a 15 hectare estate that was established in 1960 by Giacomo Rocca. Now run by grandson Angelo, the estate produces about 100,000 bottles of wine a year; about half Nebbiolo, and the half split between Barbera, Dolcetto, Chardonnay, and Cortese. The 2009 Rossa di Rocca is a blend of 80% Nebbiolo, 10% Barbera, and 10% Cabernet Franc. A new wine in the Rocca line-up, the Rossa di Rocca is so young and fresh that it's not aged at all, but bottled as soon as it's stable. Ruby-red/purplish in color. Beautiful nose. Smooth on the palate. A terrific wine that's priced for everyday drinking. Albeisa bottle.

Fattoria Le Terrazze Rosso Conero (2008) Marche

A meh Italian red from Fattoria Le Terrazze, a small (produces less than 100,000 bottles annually) Marchesian winery that has been owned by the Terni family since 1882. The 20 hectare estate grows mostly Montepulciano, along with a bit of Chardonnay, Merlot, and Syrah. La Terrazze is most famous for their "Planet Waves" wine, a blend of Montepulciano and Syrah that was created following a special request from Bob Dylan. Rosso Conero has been produced in its appellation (the central part of the Marche) since the Roman days. Rosso Conero must have be least 85% Montepulciano, with the rest usually Sangiovese. Le Terrazze's 2008 Rosso Conero is 100% Montepulciano that has been macerated with the skins for ten days in stainless steel vats then aged in medium capacity oak casks for twelve months. The wine is finished for another six months in the bottle prior to its release. Nice ruby-red color. Intense, dark fruit nose. Full-bodied; almost hot. Gasoline-like on the palate. Good with grilled red meat. Not a sipping wine by any means.

Cantina Del Taburno Greco (2009) Campania

A jewel from Cantina del Taburno, a consortium of small Campanian grape growers who produce mainly indigenous varieties such as Aglianico, Greco, Fiano, Falanghina, Coda di Volpe, and Piedirosso. The 2009 Greco is 100% Greco, a grape of Greek origin that may be the ancestor of other southern Italian whites. Intense straw yellow in color. Beautiful, fruity nose of apricot, citrus, and a bit of minerality. Crisp acidity. A fantastic Italian white that will hopefully make those who try it put down their damned Pinot Grigio. That's right, I said damned.