Thursday, March 3, 2016

Do You 'Ndjua?


'Ndjua is a cured, spicy, spreadable salumi from Calabria, the toe of Italy's boot.  'Ndjua (pronounced en-DOO-ya) is believed to have originated as a "poor-man's" version of Andouille sausage which arrived in Calabria when Napoleon conquered Naples in 1806.  The locals, most famously from the town of Spilinga, made their version from various pig parts (parts is parts) and fiery Calabrian chilies.  Today, 'Nduja is made with higher quality ingredients,  One such maker, Chicago-based 'Nduja Artisans make theirs with pork shoulder from Berkshire hogs along with plenty of fatback and chilies.  'Ndjua is best enjoyed atop grilled bread or as a base for spicy pasta sauce.  'Nduja is also delicious as a chorizo substitute in Huevos con 'Nduja.

Keeping with the adage, "What grows together, goes together", a Gaglioppo makes a terrific 'Ndjua pairing.  Calabria is one of the 20 regions of Italy, who in total, produce hundreds of different varietals, most of them limited to a very small geographical area of production. The Gaglioppo is just such a grape. Suspected of being related to an ancient Greek varietal or the Sicilian Frappato, the Gaglioppo is well adapted to the exceedingly hot and dry conditions in Calabria. Of particular note are the wines of Statti.  The Statti estate, owned by Alberto and Antonio Statti, is over 500 hectares in size, making it one of the largest in the region. Besides growing indigenous varietals (Gaglioppo and Mantonico, a white grape used in sweet nectars) they produce olive oil, grow vegetables and raise livestock.

Statti's Gaglioppo is fermented and aged in stainless, with an intense ruby red color and a strong nose of cherries and spice. Fruit-bombish in taste, but at the same time, softly tannic. Beautifully textured mouth feel; nice smooth finish. Well worth the trouble to find.